Thailand is really three places: the northern hills, the southern beaches, and Bangkok.
We will first head for the beaches. Thailand is a great scuba destination, with many wonderful dives. We will take PADI scuba lessons, and several dives. But mostly we will lounge about in the sun and sand!
The north is great hiking country. There is conflict near the borders, especially with Myanmar, and there are now many scam tour operators. But avoiding these, the country is beautiful. Thailand is very unique among countries of the world --they made a commitment to preserving wildlife and developing tourism many years ago. They totally halted all hunting and logging of the forest, which was one of the major sources of revenue for the country. Thailand is an experiment in ecotourism, and we hope it works!
Bangkok, well, what can you say about Bangkok? We will spend a few days there just to see it. But we will spend a month each on the beaches and in the hills.
Wednesday, February 13, 2002
Monday, February 11, 2002
Final Thoughts
Japan is an amazing place. It was a very good place for us to start our journey. The people are amazingly gracious. The food is good, the scenery beautiful. Getting around, eating, and finding lodging was pretty simple. With the good signage in English, and our Japan Rail Pass that allowed us to change plans frequently, Japan is very forgiving for rookie travelers. There were several times that we made mistakes, and easily recovered. We will need to be more careful in other places, where strangers cannot be trusted to help.
But our main interests on our journey are to meet the people, and to see the natural beauty. The language barrier proved to be too much to talk with many of the local people. With few exceptions, conversations were limited to figuring out logistics.
Since we are staying longer in other places, we hope to overcome this. We will be able to spend more time in single places. We will also check with local Scout organizations, and hope to meet up with people that way.
Also, it was too cold in Japan to explore the natural beauty very much. There is great hiking available, but most of it is covered with snow so we just did more of the tourist tour. We knew that before we came, but in retrospect we regret not really getting to experience the natural beauty of Japan. Perhaps we should have stuck with our original plan to visit in May. We saved $800 in airfare by going now, but we probably could have saved about that much by doing more camping.
Japan was great. We are enjoying ourselves, and having a good time. We feel like we didn't get to take advantage of everything Japan has to offer, but we certainly enjoyed the time that we were here.
But our main interests on our journey are to meet the people, and to see the natural beauty. The language barrier proved to be too much to talk with many of the local people. With few exceptions, conversations were limited to figuring out logistics.
Since we are staying longer in other places, we hope to overcome this. We will be able to spend more time in single places. We will also check with local Scout organizations, and hope to meet up with people that way.
Also, it was too cold in Japan to explore the natural beauty very much. There is great hiking available, but most of it is covered with snow so we just did more of the tourist tour. We knew that before we came, but in retrospect we regret not really getting to experience the natural beauty of Japan. Perhaps we should have stuck with our original plan to visit in May. We saved $800 in airfare by going now, but we probably could have saved about that much by doing more camping.
Japan was great. We are enjoying ourselves, and having a good time. We feel like we didn't get to take advantage of everything Japan has to offer, but we certainly enjoyed the time that we were here.
Sunday, February 10, 2002
Sapporo Snow Festival
Sapporo's Snow festival (Yuki Matsuri) has fabulous ice and snow sculptures, and snow slides for the children. It is a real treat. This is the 52nd year, and it spans three sites and draws two million visitors!
Except that this winter has been too warm! They had to work hard to get enough snow assembled for the exhibits, and it has been melting quickly since the opening.
During the daytime, we could see enough of the melting structures to imagine how incredible they really were (we arrived on day 2 of the 7 days festival, but the creations were completed three days ago). There are amazing ice carvings, with swans, dragons, phoenix, etc. There are large snow structures, including recreations of palaces, and fanciful structures such as Disney's Mickey Mouse skiing. There are several hundred different structures. Many of the details were melted, but very few of the sculptures had toppled over yet.
At night, the place really comes alive. The sculptures are lit up and the crowds come out. On several stages, local performers get to show off their talents. It has the feeling of a huge community event. In fact, one of the major sculptures captures that spirit: there was a contest in the grade schools to sketch a castle with a Pegasus. Many of the crayon drawings submitted by schoolchildren are displayed. It is really cool to see the winner --it is right next to the huge finished sculpture.
It is cool to see a city of 1.4 million people put on such a large event, and yet retain a community feel.
Except that this winter has been too warm! They had to work hard to get enough snow assembled for the exhibits, and it has been melting quickly since the opening.
During the daytime, we could see enough of the melting structures to imagine how incredible they really were (we arrived on day 2 of the 7 days festival, but the creations were completed three days ago). There are amazing ice carvings, with swans, dragons, phoenix, etc. There are large snow structures, including recreations of palaces, and fanciful structures such as Disney's Mickey Mouse skiing. There are several hundred different structures. Many of the details were melted, but very few of the sculptures had toppled over yet.
At night, the place really comes alive. The sculptures are lit up and the crowds come out. On several stages, local performers get to show off their talents. It has the feeling of a huge community event. In fact, one of the major sculptures captures that spirit: there was a contest in the grade schools to sketch a castle with a Pegasus. Many of the crayon drawings submitted by schoolchildren are displayed. It is really cool to see the winner --it is right next to the huge finished sculpture.
It is cool to see a city of 1.4 million people put on such a large event, and yet retain a community feel.
Wednesday, February 6, 2002
Taiko Drums
Kodo is the world famous taiko drum group from Japan. That's the group that plays many different kinds of drums, including those huge ones that the guys beat with baseball bats! You have probably heard of them: http://www.kodo.or.jp
We hoped to see this group while here, but were not sure we could catch them since they tour globally. They are located on remote Sado Island, off the coast from Niigata. They have a center there where they practice, make instruments, and give lessons. When we looked them up, we found they are just starting their annual world tour, with the first concert on their island for the community. We couldn't resist. We cut short the time planned for Nara, and headed for the island.
Wow! What a treat! I cannot possibly describe it. They include great showmanship, great costume, kimono dance, and of course the drums!
One tune (or whatever you call it) was an incredible duet with a man and kimono-dressed woman. It started very simply: the man beating a solo 2-3-4 beat, accenting the 3 and skipping the 1. The woman entered the stage with very elaborate ritual dance, and gradually joined him at the drum. It is a large drum, laid on its side exposing both hides so that two people may play. She joined in playing the drum, at first duplicating the same pattern. She was able to play the drum while engaged in beautiful dance, with her arms twirling in just the right pattern to make the beats. Then he added a little different rhythm, and she echoed it. That continued back and forth, very simple and beautiful without even a single stroke off the basic four count. Then she issued a simple pattern of rim shots, off beat, which he answered. This began a conversation through the drum, with the underlying beat continuing as well as the rim shots. The dance became more vigorous, and the rhythms more complex. This continued to build and build, still with each laying down a pattern, and the other answering. What a beautiful thing!
Another tune consisted of many drummers on stage, with one master just barely making a sound on his drum (a very fast triple pedidle). He was able to coax the most delicate sound out of the drum. It seemed to whisper, rather than just be a beat. Very slowly, the others joined, and the volume increased. The rhythms again became more complex, but especially more powerful. The drummers took turns with very fast, short bursts on their drums. When doing so, the drums emitted a ringing sound that was kind of eerie. The volume increased. It began to sound much like a train coming by. The ringing of the drums was so intense, the volume so loud, that the harmonics sang from every wall of the concert hall. I have never heard such power and so many different timbres from a drum. Incredible.
Another tune featured their huge drum. It is constructed from a hollowed tree trunk, with a vertical drum head. The drum itself is taller than a person, and is wheeled in, in great ceremony on a cart lit with Chinese lanterns. The player is literally pounding this drum with his full strength. He was dressed in a simple thong, so part of the show was seeing all of his muscles work as he beat the drum. Amazing power. And on and on and on...
They are touring the US later this year. Don't miss it!
We hoped to see this group while here, but were not sure we could catch them since they tour globally. They are located on remote Sado Island, off the coast from Niigata. They have a center there where they practice, make instruments, and give lessons. When we looked them up, we found they are just starting their annual world tour, with the first concert on their island for the community. We couldn't resist. We cut short the time planned for Nara, and headed for the island.
Wow! What a treat! I cannot possibly describe it. They include great showmanship, great costume, kimono dance, and of course the drums!
One tune (or whatever you call it) was an incredible duet with a man and kimono-dressed woman. It started very simply: the man beating a solo 2-3-4 beat, accenting the 3 and skipping the 1. The woman entered the stage with very elaborate ritual dance, and gradually joined him at the drum. It is a large drum, laid on its side exposing both hides so that two people may play. She joined in playing the drum, at first duplicating the same pattern. She was able to play the drum while engaged in beautiful dance, with her arms twirling in just the right pattern to make the beats. Then he added a little different rhythm, and she echoed it. That continued back and forth, very simple and beautiful without even a single stroke off the basic four count. Then she issued a simple pattern of rim shots, off beat, which he answered. This began a conversation through the drum, with the underlying beat continuing as well as the rim shots. The dance became more vigorous, and the rhythms more complex. This continued to build and build, still with each laying down a pattern, and the other answering. What a beautiful thing!
Another tune consisted of many drummers on stage, with one master just barely making a sound on his drum (a very fast triple pedidle). He was able to coax the most delicate sound out of the drum. It seemed to whisper, rather than just be a beat. Very slowly, the others joined, and the volume increased. The rhythms again became more complex, but especially more powerful. The drummers took turns with very fast, short bursts on their drums. When doing so, the drums emitted a ringing sound that was kind of eerie. The volume increased. It began to sound much like a train coming by. The ringing of the drums was so intense, the volume so loud, that the harmonics sang from every wall of the concert hall. I have never heard such power and so many different timbres from a drum. Incredible.
Another tune featured their huge drum. It is constructed from a hollowed tree trunk, with a vertical drum head. The drum itself is taller than a person, and is wheeled in, in great ceremony on a cart lit with Chinese lanterns. The player is literally pounding this drum with his full strength. He was dressed in a simple thong, so part of the show was seeing all of his muscles work as he beat the drum. Amazing power. And on and on and on...
They are touring the US later this year. Don't miss it!
Tuesday, February 5, 2002
Sakurajima
The Japanese are crazy about onsen (hot springs). We have been thinking about going to some, but hadn't made it yet.
Many of the hot springs are indoor pools, intended mostly for healthful benefits. They are even categorized by the different types of minerals, and the potential benefits. But the indoor pools that we saw seemed awfully smelly and unpleasant. They often separated the sexes also. We wanted something outdoors, and where we could be together.
Boy, did we find the ideal place! Imagine the following: a Shinto shrine was erected at a place of special spiritual feelings, where the hot springs emerge on a small island with an active volcano. The volcano is still steaming. The shrine has been built around a sacred pool, overlooking the ocean. It is beautiful, with the pool constructed of rock and the springs coming out from under a magnificent tree with gnarled roots just up the hill. The pool is right on the edge of the ocean, with a gorgeous view. We arrived in late afternoon, and stayed to watch the sunset from the pool. If that doesn't sound dreamy to you, then you need some serious time off!
Sakurajima is an island just out from Kagoshima, at the southern end of Kyushu. Put more simply, it is about as far west and south as you can get in Japan by train. Yes, you guessed it --we figured that would be the warmest spot we could get to!
The weather worked out great. It was rainy on the train ride down and the ride back, but beautiful while we were there!
Many of the hot springs are indoor pools, intended mostly for healthful benefits. They are even categorized by the different types of minerals, and the potential benefits. But the indoor pools that we saw seemed awfully smelly and unpleasant. They often separated the sexes also. We wanted something outdoors, and where we could be together.
Boy, did we find the ideal place! Imagine the following: a Shinto shrine was erected at a place of special spiritual feelings, where the hot springs emerge on a small island with an active volcano. The volcano is still steaming. The shrine has been built around a sacred pool, overlooking the ocean. It is beautiful, with the pool constructed of rock and the springs coming out from under a magnificent tree with gnarled roots just up the hill. The pool is right on the edge of the ocean, with a gorgeous view. We arrived in late afternoon, and stayed to watch the sunset from the pool. If that doesn't sound dreamy to you, then you need some serious time off!
Sakurajima is an island just out from Kagoshima, at the southern end of Kyushu. Put more simply, it is about as far west and south as you can get in Japan by train. Yes, you guessed it --we figured that would be the warmest spot we could get to!
The weather worked out great. It was rainy on the train ride down and the ride back, but beautiful while we were there!
Sunday, February 3, 2002
Logistics
Food
The food is great! Fortunately, Fran and I like rice and noodle types of meals and can eat very comfortably. It would be quite different if we were steak and potatoes kind of people!
Japanese restaurants are very expensive. It is common to spend $30 each for a dinner, or more. However, we have been eating much less expensively. There are zillions of noodle shops and tiny cafes with simple meals for $4 to $7. It is quite easy to order, even though we cannot speak well. The restaurants have plastic models of the various offerings in the window, so you can pick out what you want before going in. Then you can either copy down the Kanji, or take the waiter outside and point. We have done both to great effect! The only thing we couldn't communicate was the time we were not that hungry and wanted to share one meal. That just didn't translate through the pantomime, and we both managed to eat a full meal each after all!
We found the most wonderful bakery in Tokyo (Andersons, in the Ikebukuro station). They have a huge bread shell (sort of a soft French bread) that is filled with cubes of cheese and a fondue. We got it one day just as they brought it out of the oven! With Fran's love for cheese and Rod's for bread, we have made regular trips back to that bakery!
Breakfast consists of a ramen that we cook in the hotel, and then we eat out for the main meal in the afternoon. That supplemented with munchies and fruit is working out great.
Oh, did I describe the oranges? There are tons of different kinds of oranges. One day at Mount Fuji we had some mandarin oranges that were simply incredible! They were packed with flavor! Sweet, acid, and orange. We have tried many times since, and always had more good ones but nothing that can compare with the "mystery" oranges that we had at Fuji.
Lodging
Lodging is very expensive in Japan. A simple room typically costs $100 a night, more or less. We cannot afford such rates, so we are staying at some pretty cheap places. We have no problem with the Japanese style rooms (tatami mats, no furniture, futon on floor, slippers, and shared bathroom). In fact we especially like the Ryokan (Japanese style hotels) and the Minishuku (rooms in someone's house). We have also found good accommodations in Youth Hostels that have rooms for couples.
However we have had problems with something more basic: drafty rooms and poor heaters. One day Rod even slept in his down sleeping bag since the room was so cold. Fortunately, we have lots of warm clothing. Well, I said we were staying in the lowest price places!
Trains
Wow, they run on time, and are very comfortable. We even scored a special treat on the long trip to the south tip of Kyushu --the two of us were in a compartment for four, with facing seats, a beautiful wood table and lamp. We just read and watched the scenery go by.
The Japan Rail Pass is working very well. It makes things very simple. There are times that we don't quite understand something correctly, so we have flashed the Rail Pass to get into the section of the station that we think we want, and then flash it again to exit when we are wrong. Without the pass, we'd have to pay for those little mistakes!
Buses
Every city is different. In Kyoto, if you want to go somewhere, you take a bus. In Tokyo you take a train. In Hakata, well, we just walked. In Kyoto, the buses are just as easy and reliable as Tokyo's trains. They are expensive ($2 a ride, regardless of destination) but then everything in Japan is expensive.
Saturday, February 2, 2002
Kyoto
Fran and Rod both love Japanese gardens. Tokyo was a bit disappointing that way (except for the Koishikawa Korakuen garden that we described earlier!). Kyoto on the other hand is absolute beauty.
Every little restaurant has a small garden in the entryway. Thousands of temples and shrines dot the city, many with incredible gardens. The camellias are blooming, and even a few plums are starting. Yes, it is winter and a relatively poor time to visit the gardens, but they really are beautiful even now. The shapes, the rocks, the water, the pines, the maples...
We visit many temples (Buddhist) and shrines (Shinto). We feel a bit too ignorant to understand them. They are beautiful, but much of their meaning is lost on us. We have been reading in the evenings to learn more. While we were both acquainted with Buddhism many years ago, we do not remember enough. We have looked for courses, seminars, or books that can help us learn. There is a great eight-week program that would be wonderful, if only Japan were not so expensive! Perhaps when we get to Thailand or China we can spend more time and learn more. We need to learn and experience Buddhism more to fully appreciate the lands in which we are traveling.
Fortunately, the Japanese people are very helpful. While at one temple, many Japanese were particularly excited to see a lacquered door on display. We had no idea why it was so special. A gentleman made a point of trying to explain that it was the door from the inner chamber, not accessible to the public, which housed the statue of a great shogun. It was a very special treat to see.
(A little side note: Rod remarked later that it was very nice of the gray-haired older gentleman to help us. Fran pointed out that with my hat on, my only visible hair is a very gray beard. Hmm, I still think of a fully gray man as a generation older than me, but maybe that distinction is becoming blurred...)
Japan is such a wonderful place to just roam. We are now habitually darting into side alleys to see what is there. Rarely are we disappointed. There are tiny shops, groceries, stores, and everything imaginable tucked into every corner. The typical shop has a storefront maybe just 20-30 feet wide. For example, we needed a locksmith and happened upon one with a tiny stall just four feet by eight feet large. He was very helpful, and would not accept payment.
On the second day, a Kyoto University law student volunteered to spend the day with us. Thanks Mika! You were great! We visited many more temples and shrines, and she interpreted and explained much of what we saw. And since her English was flawless, we had many great conversations. The Japanese are so gracious!
Fran seems to be charmed by one guardian figure in particular. He is a protector, and appears in the guardhouse of many gates into the shrines. We do not yet know his name. He has a fierce face, and is often very bright red, but still looks friendly. He was paired up with another very similar guardian at one temple, and he is saying "ah" while the other says "um". Those are the beginning and end of the Japanese alphabet, so they are saying that everything is contained between them.
There are also figures of Jizo in great abundance. Jizo is the guardian of the children that we first met in Tokyo. Many shrines include Jizo, and some have large numbers of stone statues of Jizo. Many have a cloth bib around them, which is to protect the soul of the dead children. Jizo is also said to be a protector of the traveler. Maybe that's why we are attracted to him. Or maybe it is our own children. Or maybe it is our future grandchildren (no hurry, guys!).
We cannot possibly describe the temples and shrines. They are too beautiful. You have to see them yourself. They are also too numerous. And alas we are too ignorant to describe and explain them. But then, that is part of why we are on this journey...
We are greatly enjoying Kyoto. It is cold (even snowy today), but we spend the entire day out walking. We are walking 5-10 miles every day. The food is great --we continue to eat noodles for breakfast and then one main meal mid-afternoon. Our health is holding out well.
Every little restaurant has a small garden in the entryway. Thousands of temples and shrines dot the city, many with incredible gardens. The camellias are blooming, and even a few plums are starting. Yes, it is winter and a relatively poor time to visit the gardens, but they really are beautiful even now. The shapes, the rocks, the water, the pines, the maples...
We visit many temples (Buddhist) and shrines (Shinto). We feel a bit too ignorant to understand them. They are beautiful, but much of their meaning is lost on us. We have been reading in the evenings to learn more. While we were both acquainted with Buddhism many years ago, we do not remember enough. We have looked for courses, seminars, or books that can help us learn. There is a great eight-week program that would be wonderful, if only Japan were not so expensive! Perhaps when we get to Thailand or China we can spend more time and learn more. We need to learn and experience Buddhism more to fully appreciate the lands in which we are traveling.
Fortunately, the Japanese people are very helpful. While at one temple, many Japanese were particularly excited to see a lacquered door on display. We had no idea why it was so special. A gentleman made a point of trying to explain that it was the door from the inner chamber, not accessible to the public, which housed the statue of a great shogun. It was a very special treat to see.
(A little side note: Rod remarked later that it was very nice of the gray-haired older gentleman to help us. Fran pointed out that with my hat on, my only visible hair is a very gray beard. Hmm, I still think of a fully gray man as a generation older than me, but maybe that distinction is becoming blurred...)
Japan is such a wonderful place to just roam. We are now habitually darting into side alleys to see what is there. Rarely are we disappointed. There are tiny shops, groceries, stores, and everything imaginable tucked into every corner. The typical shop has a storefront maybe just 20-30 feet wide. For example, we needed a locksmith and happened upon one with a tiny stall just four feet by eight feet large. He was very helpful, and would not accept payment.
On the second day, a Kyoto University law student volunteered to spend the day with us. Thanks Mika! You were great! We visited many more temples and shrines, and she interpreted and explained much of what we saw. And since her English was flawless, we had many great conversations. The Japanese are so gracious!
Fran seems to be charmed by one guardian figure in particular. He is a protector, and appears in the guardhouse of many gates into the shrines. We do not yet know his name. He has a fierce face, and is often very bright red, but still looks friendly. He was paired up with another very similar guardian at one temple, and he is saying "ah" while the other says "um". Those are the beginning and end of the Japanese alphabet, so they are saying that everything is contained between them.
There are also figures of Jizo in great abundance. Jizo is the guardian of the children that we first met in Tokyo. Many shrines include Jizo, and some have large numbers of stone statues of Jizo. Many have a cloth bib around them, which is to protect the soul of the dead children. Jizo is also said to be a protector of the traveler. Maybe that's why we are attracted to him. Or maybe it is our own children. Or maybe it is our future grandchildren (no hurry, guys!).
We cannot possibly describe the temples and shrines. They are too beautiful. You have to see them yourself. They are also too numerous. And alas we are too ignorant to describe and explain them. But then, that is part of why we are on this journey...
We are greatly enjoying Kyoto. It is cold (even snowy today), but we spend the entire day out walking. We are walking 5-10 miles every day. The food is great --we continue to eat noodles for breakfast and then one main meal mid-afternoon. Our health is holding out well.
Friday, February 1, 2002
Mt. Fuji
Mount Fuji is famous worldwide. Its perfect cone shape is quite beautiful. Since it is winter, we did not plan to go to Fuji-san. But it called us anyway...
Fuji is an elusive mountain. Most of the year it is shrouded in clouds, either partly or completely. In previous trips to Japan, Rod has never seen the mountain. But during the winter, fewer clouds form around the mountain, and it is a good time to view the mountain. We saw Fuji from Tokyo, and off we went!
The most famous place to view the mountain is Kamaguchiko Lake. We hopped on a train (or two) and arrived around noon. After finding a very friendly place to stay (Masaaki is great!), we walked around the lake for the beautiful view. There were many fishermen on the lake. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon --fly fishing with a view of Mount Fuji. And they were even catching some nice fat trout. We just sat there and watched the mountain. Fuji was marvelous, but as promised became obscured by clouds just before sunset. That is part of the mystic of Fuji.
We planned to take a small hike (5-6 hours) up the hill on the other side of the lake the next day. But a storm was due that afternoon and we did not want to take any chances. During much of the year, climbing Fuji is somewhat of a pilgrimage. But during the winter it is more treacherous and only for those with mountaineering skills and equipment.
Fran noticed a couple of places to visit in the village. It is a small village, mostly for tourists, and there were craft shops and local museums. We asked Masaaki, and he said that one of them was quite beautiful. Off we went!
It turned out to be absolutely amazing! The Itchiku Kubota Art Museum is built by one artist, to show his work. Few artists ever get such an opportunity, but Itchiku Kubota made his own opportunities. It is an interesting story, and shows the determination it takes to make your own dreams come true.
Itchiku Kubota first saw an exhibit in the Tokyo National Museum at age 20 that changed his life. On display was a silk kimono, dyed with intricate patterns and wonderful blends using a technique that was lost 300 years ago. Itchiku decided right then that he would reproduce that technique. But World War II intervened, and Itchiku found himself to be a POW in Siberia. His reaction was indicative of his character. Many of the other POWs died. In fact, Itchiku often spent his days digging graves for other POWs. But the memory that Itchiku really has of Siberia is the sunsets. The sun, the clouds, and the open ground all produced the most wonderful sunsets he ever saw. His later works include Kimonos with the Siberian sunset.
It was not until age 34 that Itchiku was released and able to start his research into dyeing silk. His determination was maniacal. He had no income, yet had a wife and two children. There was no food, and no money for school. Regardless, Itchiku spend all of his energy researching and experimenting. Despite abject poverty, he persisted. And persisted. And persisted. It was not until he was 60 years old that he finally discovered the full technique, and could reproduce the lost art.
His work instantly took the breath away from everyone. It has been displayed at the Tokyo National Museum, and his was the first work ever for a living artist to be displayed at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum.
But rather than use his art to reach fame and fortune, Itchiku has a vision he is pursuing. He has a configuration of 80 kimonos, which represent the Universe as he sees it. It includes all four seasons, and many of the natural areas that inspired him (including the Siberian sunset!). He is racing against time to complete the work, as he is now 81.
Each Kimono is a major undertaking, and he can only complete one or two a year. But with his persistence, he will finish his dream. Each Kimono is an intricate design of color showing the mountains, lakes, trees and clouds of the area around Fuji-san during the four seasons. When displayed together in a series in the gallery another dimension of the work appears. Each kimono connects to the one next to it so that a larger panoramic view is revealed. One season blends into the next seamlessly - the puffy summer clouds from one kimono transform into the misty autumn clouds of the next.
Our side trip to Fuji seemed the perfect excursion. We had not planned to go to Fuji, but somehow it called us there. Then after a wonderful walk around the lake with incredible views, the next day we happened upon a truly amazing master artist. We know that the trip will have highs and lows, and we are savoring this moment.
Fuji is an elusive mountain. Most of the year it is shrouded in clouds, either partly or completely. In previous trips to Japan, Rod has never seen the mountain. But during the winter, fewer clouds form around the mountain, and it is a good time to view the mountain. We saw Fuji from Tokyo, and off we went!
The most famous place to view the mountain is Kamaguchiko Lake. We hopped on a train (or two) and arrived around noon. After finding a very friendly place to stay (Masaaki is great!), we walked around the lake for the beautiful view. There were many fishermen on the lake. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon --fly fishing with a view of Mount Fuji. And they were even catching some nice fat trout. We just sat there and watched the mountain. Fuji was marvelous, but as promised became obscured by clouds just before sunset. That is part of the mystic of Fuji.
We planned to take a small hike (5-6 hours) up the hill on the other side of the lake the next day. But a storm was due that afternoon and we did not want to take any chances. During much of the year, climbing Fuji is somewhat of a pilgrimage. But during the winter it is more treacherous and only for those with mountaineering skills and equipment.
Fran noticed a couple of places to visit in the village. It is a small village, mostly for tourists, and there were craft shops and local museums. We asked Masaaki, and he said that one of them was quite beautiful. Off we went!
It turned out to be absolutely amazing! The Itchiku Kubota Art Museum is built by one artist, to show his work. Few artists ever get such an opportunity, but Itchiku Kubota made his own opportunities. It is an interesting story, and shows the determination it takes to make your own dreams come true.
Itchiku Kubota first saw an exhibit in the Tokyo National Museum at age 20 that changed his life. On display was a silk kimono, dyed with intricate patterns and wonderful blends using a technique that was lost 300 years ago. Itchiku decided right then that he would reproduce that technique. But World War II intervened, and Itchiku found himself to be a POW in Siberia. His reaction was indicative of his character. Many of the other POWs died. In fact, Itchiku often spent his days digging graves for other POWs. But the memory that Itchiku really has of Siberia is the sunsets. The sun, the clouds, and the open ground all produced the most wonderful sunsets he ever saw. His later works include Kimonos with the Siberian sunset.
It was not until age 34 that Itchiku was released and able to start his research into dyeing silk. His determination was maniacal. He had no income, yet had a wife and two children. There was no food, and no money for school. Regardless, Itchiku spend all of his energy researching and experimenting. Despite abject poverty, he persisted. And persisted. And persisted. It was not until he was 60 years old that he finally discovered the full technique, and could reproduce the lost art.
His work instantly took the breath away from everyone. It has been displayed at the Tokyo National Museum, and his was the first work ever for a living artist to be displayed at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum.
But rather than use his art to reach fame and fortune, Itchiku has a vision he is pursuing. He has a configuration of 80 kimonos, which represent the Universe as he sees it. It includes all four seasons, and many of the natural areas that inspired him (including the Siberian sunset!). He is racing against time to complete the work, as he is now 81.
Each Kimono is a major undertaking, and he can only complete one or two a year. But with his persistence, he will finish his dream. Each Kimono is an intricate design of color showing the mountains, lakes, trees and clouds of the area around Fuji-san during the four seasons. When displayed together in a series in the gallery another dimension of the work appears. Each kimono connects to the one next to it so that a larger panoramic view is revealed. One season blends into the next seamlessly - the puffy summer clouds from one kimono transform into the misty autumn clouds of the next.
Our side trip to Fuji seemed the perfect excursion. We had not planned to go to Fuji, but somehow it called us there. Then after a wonderful walk around the lake with incredible views, the next day we happened upon a truly amazing master artist. We know that the trip will have highs and lows, and we are savoring this moment.
Thursday, January 24, 2002
Impressions of Tokyo
Rather than give you a minute-by-minute account of our visit
here, it seems more appropriate to paint a big picture of our impressions of
the city.
#1: It's big. There are over four million people who live here. You really feel that when you are crowded into a train car with no room to move. Or when you are waiting at a traffic signal and it turns green - a wall of people head your direction.
#2: We in America see the cosmopolitan face of Japan. We see the modernism, the advancement in high tech gizmos and the (to us) monolithic "Japan Inc" economy. Tokyo, at one level, is a city of neon lights that puts Las Vegas and Time Square to shame, amazing electronics shopping areas and Pachinko parlors (gambling with vertical pinball machines). But at a more basic level, it is a city of small neighborhoods with narrow winding streets and small businesses. It is the old woman running the gas station from her home, filling liters of gasoline cans to be delivered by pick-up truck. It is the woman riding with her two small children by bicycle to work. It is the person stopping by the neighborhood shrine to say a prayer before continuing on their day.
#3: The streets in Tokyo are almost impossible to navigate; even the locals can get lost. There are no street names and there is nothing that bears any resemblance to a grid system. The blocks are irregular shapes and the streets curve and dead-end. And we thought that driving in Boston was difficult! Since there are no grids and few streets that extend more than a few blocks before turning away or dead-ending, Tokyo is divided into named regions. Then, each region is further divided into named precincts. Within each precinct, there is a system of numbered areas, numbered blocks and house numbers. If you understand the system and can find a map on the street (there are many) you can find your way around. We were quite proud of ourselves when we found a new location by numbers only. But beware; don't stand on the corner scanning the map in your hand. You will have three people come up to ask you if they can help you find where you are going.
#4: Anderson’s bakery in Iketeburo Station is heavenly. Rod kids Fran that we are doing the fabric tour of the world (more about that later). But Andersons might be the beginning to the bread tour of the world (and we all know how much Rod loves bread!) The bakery is so popular that hundreds of people crowd in to pull items hot off the racks. Everything is fresh --often still too hot to touch. We had to make many visits during our stay to sample the varieties of pastries and breads. The top choice is cheese bread (we never learned the Japanese name) - a sourdough ball with a hole in the top filled with Gruyere chunks and melted cheddar. It is a fondue on a plate worth trying to re-create when we get back home, made of fresh sourdough and hot melted cheese straight out of the oven. Oh!
#5: The Tokyo International Quilt Show was (to Fran, at least) well worth the visit. Rod heard about the show from the woman sitting next to us on the airplane from LAX- she's the senior editor of Quilter's Newsletter (Sue later tells us that's near nobility!). The Japanese have really taken the art of quilting to another level. See some of the quilts and close ups of techniques in the photo section. (Unfortunately, we don't have the names of the artists to give them proper credit).
#6: Some of the architecture is really very modernistic and unlike anything we've seen. The Tokyo International Forum is a convention center in Central Tokyo. We have pictures of the lobby area in the photo section. Even better, check out the pictures on a website of the great buildings of the world: http://www.greatbuildings.com/buildings/Tokyo_International_Forum.html. The building looks like a huge, glass ship the height of at least six stories. Walking on the ramps from the bottom to the top makes you feel suspended in midair. The Tokyo Municipal Offices is a 50-story building with twin observation towers - you can see Mt. Fuji and all of Tokyo on a clear day. We weren't so fortunate when we visited, though. The walls are polished steel and granite, with lines etched into them so that they resemble computer chips. The architecture is quite unique, since the towers need to be earthquake proof.
#7: It is possible to find a quiet, contemplative spot in the midst of the traffic noise and crowds. After many days of neon lights, trains and a hectic pace, we needed to find a garden. We went to the Imperial Garden at the Palace and were disappointed. It was a great open space with trees, but had none of the delights of our idea of a Japanese strolling garden. Then we found the perfect garden - Koishikawa Korakuen. It has many winding paths with new discoveries around every corner. It even has a demonstration rice paddy that school children plant and harvest. It has high vantage points with structures to view the garden, creeks, waterfalls and ponds. It is everything we think of when we imagine a Japanese garden. We leave the garden feeling very restful.
#8: We meet Jizo, the patron guardian of children and travelers. As we wander through a new area on our way to the museum, we find a shrine with 84,000 statues of Jizo (yes, someone counted them). They are of all sizes and lined up, row upon endless row. We wonder at the eccentricity that leads one to create such a shrine!
#1: It's big. There are over four million people who live here. You really feel that when you are crowded into a train car with no room to move. Or when you are waiting at a traffic signal and it turns green - a wall of people head your direction.
#2: We in America see the cosmopolitan face of Japan. We see the modernism, the advancement in high tech gizmos and the (to us) monolithic "Japan Inc" economy. Tokyo, at one level, is a city of neon lights that puts Las Vegas and Time Square to shame, amazing electronics shopping areas and Pachinko parlors (gambling with vertical pinball machines). But at a more basic level, it is a city of small neighborhoods with narrow winding streets and small businesses. It is the old woman running the gas station from her home, filling liters of gasoline cans to be delivered by pick-up truck. It is the woman riding with her two small children by bicycle to work. It is the person stopping by the neighborhood shrine to say a prayer before continuing on their day.
#3: The streets in Tokyo are almost impossible to navigate; even the locals can get lost. There are no street names and there is nothing that bears any resemblance to a grid system. The blocks are irregular shapes and the streets curve and dead-end. And we thought that driving in Boston was difficult! Since there are no grids and few streets that extend more than a few blocks before turning away or dead-ending, Tokyo is divided into named regions. Then, each region is further divided into named precincts. Within each precinct, there is a system of numbered areas, numbered blocks and house numbers. If you understand the system and can find a map on the street (there are many) you can find your way around. We were quite proud of ourselves when we found a new location by numbers only. But beware; don't stand on the corner scanning the map in your hand. You will have three people come up to ask you if they can help you find where you are going.
#4: Anderson’s bakery in Iketeburo Station is heavenly. Rod kids Fran that we are doing the fabric tour of the world (more about that later). But Andersons might be the beginning to the bread tour of the world (and we all know how much Rod loves bread!) The bakery is so popular that hundreds of people crowd in to pull items hot off the racks. Everything is fresh --often still too hot to touch. We had to make many visits during our stay to sample the varieties of pastries and breads. The top choice is cheese bread (we never learned the Japanese name) - a sourdough ball with a hole in the top filled with Gruyere chunks and melted cheddar. It is a fondue on a plate worth trying to re-create when we get back home, made of fresh sourdough and hot melted cheese straight out of the oven. Oh!
#5: The Tokyo International Quilt Show was (to Fran, at least) well worth the visit. Rod heard about the show from the woman sitting next to us on the airplane from LAX- she's the senior editor of Quilter's Newsletter (Sue later tells us that's near nobility!). The Japanese have really taken the art of quilting to another level. See some of the quilts and close ups of techniques in the photo section. (Unfortunately, we don't have the names of the artists to give them proper credit).
#6: Some of the architecture is really very modernistic and unlike anything we've seen. The Tokyo International Forum is a convention center in Central Tokyo. We have pictures of the lobby area in the photo section. Even better, check out the pictures on a website of the great buildings of the world: http://www.greatbuildings.com/buildings/Tokyo_International_Forum.html. The building looks like a huge, glass ship the height of at least six stories. Walking on the ramps from the bottom to the top makes you feel suspended in midair. The Tokyo Municipal Offices is a 50-story building with twin observation towers - you can see Mt. Fuji and all of Tokyo on a clear day. We weren't so fortunate when we visited, though. The walls are polished steel and granite, with lines etched into them so that they resemble computer chips. The architecture is quite unique, since the towers need to be earthquake proof.
#7: It is possible to find a quiet, contemplative spot in the midst of the traffic noise and crowds. After many days of neon lights, trains and a hectic pace, we needed to find a garden. We went to the Imperial Garden at the Palace and were disappointed. It was a great open space with trees, but had none of the delights of our idea of a Japanese strolling garden. Then we found the perfect garden - Koishikawa Korakuen. It has many winding paths with new discoveries around every corner. It even has a demonstration rice paddy that school children plant and harvest. It has high vantage points with structures to view the garden, creeks, waterfalls and ponds. It is everything we think of when we imagine a Japanese garden. We leave the garden feeling very restful.
#8: We meet Jizo, the patron guardian of children and travelers. As we wander through a new area on our way to the museum, we find a shrine with 84,000 statues of Jizo (yes, someone counted them). They are of all sizes and lined up, row upon endless row. We wonder at the eccentricity that leads one to create such a shrine!
Monday, January 21, 2002
Tokyo Train System
We have our first real experience with the Japanese train system. Our plans are to explore Tokyo and use an all-day train pass to get around. While Rod had experienced it before, Fran was not quite prepared for what she saw - rush hour in Ikebukuro, the second busiest station in Japan. Imagine yourself in a foreign country where you can't read many of the signs and you're looking for the direction of your train platform. All of a sudden a train empties and a thousand people in mass rush in your direction as they head for the exit gates. Fran learned, quite soon, to go with the flow of the crowd!
A word about the Tokyo train/subway system. The crowds are amazing - around 800,000 people pass through Tokyo station every day. From Tokyo station there radiates a complex web of subways, above ground trains, long distance trains and Shinkansen (bullet trains) that allow you to travel anywhere from a small neighborhood in the city to the ends of the northern or southern islands. The system is incredibly efficient; there is never any waiting for a local train: just walk up to the platform and step into the car. Trains roll onto the platforms every few minutes. There is a longer wait for long distance trains, but they ALWAYS run on time.
The tunnels which connect the subways and the trains stretch for miles - it's really like another city underground. There is everything that the traveler could want: restaurants, supermarkets, clothes shops, convenience stores. Many department stores connect to the tunnels by escalator. It's possible to navigate great distances through the maze of underground tunnels (as we did one day to get out of the rain for 1/2 hour to get from one station to another).
A word about the Tokyo train/subway system. The crowds are amazing - around 800,000 people pass through Tokyo station every day. From Tokyo station there radiates a complex web of subways, above ground trains, long distance trains and Shinkansen (bullet trains) that allow you to travel anywhere from a small neighborhood in the city to the ends of the northern or southern islands. The system is incredibly efficient; there is never any waiting for a local train: just walk up to the platform and step into the car. Trains roll onto the platforms every few minutes. There is a longer wait for long distance trains, but they ALWAYS run on time.
The tunnels which connect the subways and the trains stretch for miles - it's really like another city underground. There is everything that the traveler could want: restaurants, supermarkets, clothes shops, convenience stores. Many department stores connect to the tunnels by escalator. It's possible to navigate great distances through the maze of underground tunnels (as we did one day to get out of the rain for 1/2 hour to get from one station to another).
Tokyo, January 19-20, 2002
We have been preparing for this day for two years - reading travel books, selling possessions, resigning from Boy Scout commitments, watching our sons get married and generally letting go of our lives in Oregon. This is the much-anticipated first day of our 18-month journey around the world: our adventure.
We awake early with images of masses of people and endlessly long lines to wait through in the international airport at LAX. We expect customs hassles and baggage inspections. We plan in plenty of extra time. Nothing could have prepared us for what we saw as we arrived off the LAX shuttle bus at 7 am: emptiness, sheer emptiness. There was no one there to check us in. We sat and enjoyed a coffee. The lines eventually started forming, but we sailed through without having to open our overstuffed and all-too-heavy bags.
After a long flight with excellent service we arrive at Tokyo International Airport. We're finally in the country that Fran has dreamed of visiting since studying Japanese in college. We gather information at the tourist center and then board the first of many trains in Japan, heading for Ikebukuro station. At our destination we surface on a Tokyo street. Ah, the cars, the neon lights, the action, the people.... and the confused looks on our faces as we search for the direction to walk for our hotel. A young man approaches within a minute, motions to look at our map, scans it for a moment, and then motions for us to follow. We do, wondering if this is such a good idea on a dark and winding street in an unknown city. He leads us, though, all the many blocks to the door of our hotel! Then he disappears in the night. (We will find in the days to come that this friendliness and helpfulness will be repeated many times).
We are staying the next four nights in a ryokan, a Japanese style inn. We take our shoes off at the door; receive our room key, neatly stacked face towel, Yukata (cotton robe) & sash, then head for our room. The room is simple but practical with tatami (straw rug mats), futon and heavy quilts on the floor, a bench and closet. The communal sinks and showers are just outside the room. There is a Japanese soaking tub down the hall and Fran opts for a soak to wash off the travel weariness. Bliss!
We awake early with images of masses of people and endlessly long lines to wait through in the international airport at LAX. We expect customs hassles and baggage inspections. We plan in plenty of extra time. Nothing could have prepared us for what we saw as we arrived off the LAX shuttle bus at 7 am: emptiness, sheer emptiness. There was no one there to check us in. We sat and enjoyed a coffee. The lines eventually started forming, but we sailed through without having to open our overstuffed and all-too-heavy bags.
After a long flight with excellent service we arrive at Tokyo International Airport. We're finally in the country that Fran has dreamed of visiting since studying Japanese in college. We gather information at the tourist center and then board the first of many trains in Japan, heading for Ikebukuro station. At our destination we surface on a Tokyo street. Ah, the cars, the neon lights, the action, the people.... and the confused looks on our faces as we search for the direction to walk for our hotel. A young man approaches within a minute, motions to look at our map, scans it for a moment, and then motions for us to follow. We do, wondering if this is such a good idea on a dark and winding street in an unknown city. He leads us, though, all the many blocks to the door of our hotel! Then he disappears in the night. (We will find in the days to come that this friendliness and helpfulness will be repeated many times).
We are staying the next four nights in a ryokan, a Japanese style inn. We take our shoes off at the door; receive our room key, neatly stacked face towel, Yukata (cotton robe) & sash, then head for our room. The room is simple but practical with tatami (straw rug mats), futon and heavy quilts on the floor, a bench and closet. The communal sinks and showers are just outside the room. There is a Japanese soaking tub down the hall and Fran opts for a soak to wash off the travel weariness. Bliss!
Friday, January 18, 2002
Before Arriving in Japan
For two years we planned to start our trip in a sunny location. At the last minute, we switched it to Japan, since that routing saved us $800.
It will be cold! The temperature is unlikely to get above freezing, even during the day. We will stay in inexpensive hotels and hostels --no tent camping in this weather!
The exciting part is that we will visit the Sapporo Snow Festival. That is an amazing festival that attracts two million people from all over the world to see ice sculptures, including statuary and even buildings!
It is really too cold in January and February to camp in Japan. Too bad --it is a wonderful area. Check out the National Camping Association of Japan, www.camping.or.jp (link expired). Rod sent them email, and they said it is possible to camp in southern Honshu below 1,000 meters, but above that is snow. We will see if Fran agrees to that!
Trains are amazing. To get an idea, look at www.japanrail.com link expired). We anticipate making extensive use of the trains. Rod spent an inordinate amount of time figuring out the potential costs of the trains, and the Japan Rail pass is both expensive and a great deal. We bought them, and are on our way!
It will be cold! The temperature is unlikely to get above freezing, even during the day. We will stay in inexpensive hotels and hostels --no tent camping in this weather!
The exciting part is that we will visit the Sapporo Snow Festival. That is an amazing festival that attracts two million people from all over the world to see ice sculptures, including statuary and even buildings!
It is really too cold in January and February to camp in Japan. Too bad --it is a wonderful area. Check out the National Camping Association of Japan, www.camping.or.jp (link expired). Rod sent them email, and they said it is possible to camp in southern Honshu below 1,000 meters, but above that is snow. We will see if Fran agrees to that!
Trains are amazing. To get an idea, look at www.japanrail.com link expired). We anticipate making extensive use of the trains. Rod spent an inordinate amount of time figuring out the potential costs of the trains, and the Japan Rail pass is both expensive and a great deal. We bought them, and are on our way!
Saturday, December 1, 2001
USA
We have to start somewhere! Actually, we wanted a trial, "tune-up" destination to check and make sure that our gear is completely ready.
It turns out to be quite a challenge to get the gear for 18 months of travel down to just two backpacks. We are packing for both camping as well as more civilized life. The packs need to be suitable for multiple day treks, as well as for checking on planes and hauling around towns. We need to be ready for sub-freezing in northern Japan, as well as very hot in the tropics. There is lots of stuff that would be handy to take, but the art will be to take as little as possible.
Our shake-down trip was in California. We visited Death Valley, and camped in the San Bernardino Mountains near Big Bear. Death Valley is really quite beautiful. And quite dead. Much of the time it was overcast, which basically means you feel like you are in a gravel pit. But when the sun did come out, the rocks take on incredible colors! We got two sunny intervals, and were able to take in most of the sights.
We saw something quite bizarre. We were driving down the road at dusk, and saw something in the highway. We slowed down and then stopped. It was a fox! He began circling the car, just the way a pack of wolves will circle the prey before they attack. We figured that people must have been feeding the fox from their cars, and he had learned to beg for food. Since it would be unhealthy for him to eat our food, not to mention unhealthy to teach him to stand in the road at dusk, we chose to not feed him and slowly drove off.
We also made a bunch of minor adjustments to the gear. Fran made several specific ditty bags just the sizes we need. Rod made a cable for locking the packs. We figured out how to cook dinners with just a few minutes of fuel on the stove (we have wind screens and reflectors to aid in boiling the water in just four minutes, and then after we pour in the noodle, rice, or whatever, we bundle the pot up in Fran's polar fleece hood and it stays hot enough to cook without further fuel).
It turns out to be quite a challenge to get the gear for 18 months of travel down to just two backpacks. We are packing for both camping as well as more civilized life. The packs need to be suitable for multiple day treks, as well as for checking on planes and hauling around towns. We need to be ready for sub-freezing in northern Japan, as well as very hot in the tropics. There is lots of stuff that would be handy to take, but the art will be to take as little as possible.
Our shake-down trip was in California. We visited Death Valley, and camped in the San Bernardino Mountains near Big Bear. Death Valley is really quite beautiful. And quite dead. Much of the time it was overcast, which basically means you feel like you are in a gravel pit. But when the sun did come out, the rocks take on incredible colors! We got two sunny intervals, and were able to take in most of the sights.
We saw something quite bizarre. We were driving down the road at dusk, and saw something in the highway. We slowed down and then stopped. It was a fox! He began circling the car, just the way a pack of wolves will circle the prey before they attack. We figured that people must have been feeding the fox from their cars, and he had learned to beg for food. Since it would be unhealthy for him to eat our food, not to mention unhealthy to teach him to stand in the road at dusk, we chose to not feed him and slowly drove off.
We also made a bunch of minor adjustments to the gear. Fran made several specific ditty bags just the sizes we need. Rod made a cable for locking the packs. We figured out how to cook dinners with just a few minutes of fuel on the stove (we have wind screens and reflectors to aid in boiling the water in just four minutes, and then after we pour in the noodle, rice, or whatever, we bundle the pot up in Fran's polar fleece hood and it stays hot enough to cook without further fuel).
Saturday, September 22, 2001
Pasadena
Simplify!
We lived the typical American middle class life. We were busy every day, every evening, and every weekend. We owned a huge house, full of every imaginable thing. We volunteered our time generously, and were quite fulfilled. We had it made.
But it was too much. Rod would drive home from a long day at work, planning for the Scout meeting that evening. Driving home, he would see that the lawn needed mowing and that the weeds needed pulling. And the trim needed paint. He’d park in the driveway, because the garage needed cleaning. With barely a minute to grab a bite, he'd make mental notes of all the chores that would not get done, and head out the door to the Scout meeting. Free time meant
time to fix things, maintain things, buy things, and otherwise be possessed by the possessions.We were quite satisfied that we had most of our priorities in order. After all, the majority of our time was spent either with family or volunteering, or working. But still, there was just too much. And with the kids now grown, we had the opportunity to make some changes
We made a decision to simplify. Radically. We figured that by taking two years to simplify, we could ease into it. Our goal was to leave on the trip with no worldly possessions other than our backpacks. And other than a few boxes of memories stored away, that's exactly what we did.
Pasadena
In August 2000, Rod got a call from his son Arlo to see if he wanted to join the company in Pasadena. Since we had already 
committed to our trip, we decided to use Pasadena as an intermediate step. It was a great idea.Rod walked to work. Fran bicycled to the store. We rarely needed to drive. We rented a tiny one bedroom cottage. We owned very little, so didn’t need to spend our time fixing or buying things. We could be backpacking the San Gabriel Mountains in 17 minutes. We loved it. We were well on our way to the simpler life.
Los Angeles also became a great introduction to the rest of the world. With a tremendous immigrant population, Los Angeles seems to have every culture represented. We visited Thai Town and China Town. We went to a great Greek festival in a Hispanic neighborhood, combining the best of both. Rod heard the drums of the Vietnamese dragon parade. Fran listened to the Dalai Lama. In Los Angeles, you can visit virtually any place in the world.The Great Giveaways!
We sold the house, two cars, 14 rooms full of furniture, appliances, tools, and the billiard table. Everything.
But there are some things we couldn’t sell. Fran inherited the baby grand piano from her mom. We sent it off to Fran’s sister, along with other family stuff. Some very special gifts that we had received over the years we returned to the original givers.
There were also plenty of people who could benefit from our simplification. Both of our sons were setting up households, so tonnage went their way. A Scout troop got several pickup trucks full of things for an auction. Relief organizations got tons of clothes, blankets, and shoes. Boots went to Guatemala.
As we gave things away a strange thing happened. At first there was just so much stuff, and it was hard to part with. But with each item we gave away, our load became lighter. And we saw the joy in the people who received it. It became easier and very satisfying. Giving away everything we own transitioned from a chore to a real joy.
Just before we departed, we had the final going away party. It was the party to make the last few things “go away”. Arlo nicknamed it the house-looting party. What remained was then donated to a local church. After storing a few boxes of memories with friends, we are down to just our backpacks.
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