Margarita

Ten easy downhill miles!  Well, downhill in the Bigfoot Trail meaning of the word. WILDCAT knows that when I say we have 500 feet of downhill, it usually starts with a few hundred feet uphill, so we start our downhill with a climb, of course.

Before lunch, we are done with our miles for the day!

Fran surprises me with new socks. My socks are old, wearing thin, with a few holes that I have darned and some that I have not. I slip on the new socks and immediately feel the difference. They are much more slippery. Perhaps that will solve some of the blister problems?

We get cleaned up, and Fran drives us 30 miles to Cave Junction, Oregon. She found that Carlo's Mexican Restaurant claims Margarita's are their specialty. WILDCAT gets his frozen margarita after three failed attempts and 278 miles!

10 miles to Indian Creek on the Bigfoot Highway, to mile 278.

Cinnamon bear and great swimming

As I awake, I notice a beautiful, large cinnamon black bear about fifty feet away, across the creek. She does not see me and quietly gets a drink and then slowly ambles up the hill on the other side. WILDCAT is still asleep, and I choose not to wake him since that might scare the bear away.

Michael Kauffmann notates upcoming Azalea Lake as providing amazing swimming. We take a leisurely morning start and arrive just as the day warms up, and Michael is right. The lake is clear, shallow and warm.  We feel so refreshed and clean after a swim.

My right knee has strengthened so that I rarely wear the knee brace anymore. However, the left knee, the one I had surgery on, is hurting, so I put the brace on it instead. The left knee has very little cartilage, and I do not want to get it inflamed.

The trail holds out in good shape, so the miles are easy. We just might finish this trail yet! With just 100 miles left, and two spare days remaining, we can relax and enjoy it.

16 miles to Tanner Lake, to mile 268.

Boundary Trail

Off to the restaurant for a big breakfast, a hiker tradition in Seiad Valley. Afterward, Fran checks the status of forest fires at the forest ranger office and is told that where we are headed is fine.

I figured out the cause of the blisters on top of my foot. The Altras Lone Peak shoes have a bad seam at the base of the tongue that rubs on the top of the foot. I poke tiny scissors in as best I can and trim off some of the excess fabric. I'm really trying to like these shoes since they are comfortable and have a great toe box. However, they are already showing considerable wear, and seem to have real quality control problems. I had to exchange my first pair due to a poorly cut insole that caused pain and affected my gait, and now a bad seam may be causing blisters on top of the foot.

We try to get an early start since we are facing a steep, long climb back up 4,500 feet in 5.5 miles. For a morning leaving town, we don't do too badly. We met several other hikers in town, plus the ones we partied with last night. We expect some of them to overtake us as we slowly climb up the hill, but none do. They are probably waiting until evening to hike in the cooler weather. We stop at the two springs on the way up the hill and get our shirts wet, and I pour water over my head. We call that turning on the air conditioning.

The smoke gets thicker all day. I trust the outlook provided by the forest ranger. Otherwise, I think I'd be too nervous to continue into possible danger.

We leave the last water source, Lookout Spring, about six miles up. Ten miles up, the Bigfoot Trail turns west onto the Boundary Trail while the Pacific Crest Trail heads east. We depart the PCT, grateful for 71 relatively good miles, but now continuing with a dry 11-mile stretch forcing us to hike until dusk.

16 miles to Lonesome Lake, to mile 252.

Seiad Valley

Last night's storm transitioned into a quiet, dry night. I slept surprisingly well considering the slope and rocks.

Today's destination is Seiad Valley, 18 miles downhill on a good trail. Yeah, that's what I'm talking about.

This area is largely burned just as it has been most of the past couple of days. Several wooden footbridges were destroyed, but we are pleased to find new steel footbridges installed last year. The miles go easily.

Fran is going to meet us at the campground, which WILDCAT and I both assume is the RV park in Seiad Valley. Instead, we find her at Grider Campground, six miles before Seiad Valley. Pleasant surprise! We relax in the shade sipping drinks and eating fresh fruit.  In the evening we slack-pack the miles to Seiad Valley to complete the day's miles and return to Grider Campground for showers and dinner.

Three hikers appear at the camp, thru hikers on the PCT. We have a party with beer, Scotch and wine well into the night.

18 miles to Seiad Valley, to mile 236.

Storm!

I had spotted mackerel clouds two days ago and mentioned to WILDCAT that they can indicate a change in weather two days out. Yesterday we saw mare's tail clouds, which foretell rain one day out. Today we woke to dry thunder and lightning. The lightning seemed to be just between clouds rather than striking the ground, so I just smugly congratulated myself on my weather prediction and ignored it.

Later in the morning, we saw five plumes of smoke below our ridge. Apparently, some of the lightning strikes did, in fact, hit the ground. So much for my powers of observation. They all looked small, maybe just a single tree. Later, I learned from Fran, 21 separate fires were started in the area around Happy Camp. Fortunately, none were serious.

In mid-afternoon, we climbed a ridge and could see dark streaks of rain pouring down to the east. The cloud was headed more or less in our direction, so it bore watching. Then I could feel the temperature drop and the wind come up, typical signs of imminent rain.  I pulled out my poncho and got ready in case it hit us, though I still didn't expect much. After all, the average rainfall for the entire month is just 0.2 inches.

Then the hail hit. Hard! All of the hailstones were at least a half inch across, and some were a full inch. I quickly donned my poncho and Tilley hat, which fortunately has a padded top.

Now that it had hit, it was too late to pitch my shelter. I'd get everything soaked since my tarptent is at the bottom of my pack, having not yet been used on the trip. I'd underestimated the storm, and shelter was no longer an option. We took refuge under a cedar tree for a bit to wait out the storm. Instead, the storm just increased, and the ground turned white. I started to get cold. The only choices when cold are to pitch the tarp and climb into my sleeping bag, which I'd already ruled out, or to keep hiking for warmth. We headed back out into the storm.

At one point, WILDCAT yelled at me to watch out for the trail. At first confused, I soon realized that a flash flood was coming down the trail behind me. I jumped to the side as it steamrolled past. Thanks for the warning!

After the storm passed, we looked for a campsite. Unfortunately, there was nothing even marginally suitable. We continued down to the Cold Spring trail head on a forest road and started to unpack to cook dinner and make camp. A light rain started, so we decided to set up our shelters. I threw everything else back into my pack and grabbed the tarptent. Instantly a fierce wind took off, so our tarps flapped impossibly as we tried to set them up. I abandoned my first site and sought protection from the wind behind a tree. The new location was horribly rocky and sloped, but I could tie off the tarptent to the tree and find refuge. Slowly we wrestled our tarps into submission and slid under. A half hour later, the wind died down and the rain stopped.

What a day!

20 miles to Cold Spring Trailhead, to mile 218.

Burn

We finish off the dry stretch in the morning and enter another one in the evening. Dry camping again.

At one point we crossed over enough snow that the trail played tricks on us. It crisscrossed underneath the snow on a switchback and headed back in the same direction it came from, only higher up the hill. That took a while to figure out!

The views are not as stellar as I remembered in 2004. A huge fire devastated the area in 2014 and we have probably hiked twenty miles in burn with just isolated pockets of trees. One area on the map is designated as Old Growth forest. Now it is just ash. The distant views are still wonderful, but my heart aches at what once was as I plod through the burn.

18 miles to a ridge above Cliff Lake, to mile 198.

Pacific Crest Trail

After finishing the climb up to the PCT this morning, it is like a whole new universe revealed itself. The PCT is wonderful. Visible trail. No debris. Ah, this is what a maintained trail looks like. Water is not an issue until later in the day, when a large stretch before and after Etna is dry. I load up with nine pounds of water.

I absolutely fell in love with this area on my PCT hike in 2004. Rereading my 2004 blog I see I was positively gushing about it. Take a peek:  trailjournals.com/steady

As we approached the crossing of the road to Etna, we both wondered about going into town. Naw, let's get the miles done. Besides, it is notoriously difficult to hitchhike down to town on this remote road. Regardless as we cross the pavement, a local person drives up and offers us a ride to town. We decline, still preferring to make more miles.

I do find that the PCT is more physically challenging than I remembered. This section still has lots of up and down. Maybe it was easier in 2004 since I was thirteen years younger and had already hiked 1,600 miles. Back then, I clocked 25 miles a day through this section. Today we hike 17.

Huge milestone: 180 miles is exactly half way!  We can relax a little on the pace now since we will have two spare days left with half the miles to go. Much better than we faced a week ago!

17 miles to a saddle above Etna, to mile 180.

Island Fire detour

Again, the trail refuses to give up miles easily. The six miles to the RV include faint trail and a 2,000-foot climb over the ridge. But we arrived by late morning.

Fran was all set up in a great campground next to a 220-year-old Sugar Pine. Hot showers! Chilled watermelon!  Iced tea!

We spent the afternoon re-planning the hike. I reviewed all of the maps through the end at Crescent City. There are still plenty of opportunities for the trail to bog us down, including climbs and descents through the most overgrown stretch of trail just a few days from the end.

We face a detour a few miles up the trail. The Island Fire has been burning for a couple of weeks, and while it is not a threat, the Bigfoot Trail is closed for a section ahead. The detour is to cut over to the PCT just before the fire. In fact, the Bigfoot Trail joins the PCT about 21 miles farther ahead anyway and follows it for 42 miles past Seiad Valley. As we study the maps, the detour on Right Hand Fork trail looks dubious. It may be yet another faint, unmaintained trail, and the PCT and Bigfoot are rather far apart where it connects them. We start looking for alternatives.

The irony is that the closed section of the Bigfoot Trail is said to be well maintained and follows a gentle river valley. Arg! We're skipping some of the few easy miles on this blasted trail!

A new plan emerges. The Bigfoot Trail momentarily touches the PCT just three miles past the campsite. Jumping on at that point raises our total on the PCT to about 71 miles instead of the 63 for the detour route, and eliminates the uncertain Right Hand Trail. That also might gain back a half day which would allow us to reduce the incessant push for miles.

The bonus is that this section of the PCT was one of my favorites along the entire PCT in 2004. I'm jazzed!

We set off on the climb in the evening, trying to get most of it out of the way.  We toss our sleeping bags on the ground and cowboy camp about two-thirds of the way up, by a stream.

8 miles to Trail Creek Junction, to mile 163

Another day, another climb

Today is the third of four consecutive climbs. We are again a few miles short of being perfectly lined up, but we are taking all the miles that the trail and our bodies give us. It feels like a hard push more than a recreational walk. I wish we had more spare days and didn't have to push so hard.

Today there is a choice on the climb. The more intense route is up Packer's Peak, while the less intense route is the Lady Gulch trail. Both are big climbs, but going over Packer's Peak adds about 1,500 feet more and is steeper. WILDCAT doesn't yet have his full speed climbing, so we opt for the less strenuous route. That is unusual for me, and I had been planning to hike over Packer's Peak, but the pressure of time is real. The Lady Gulch trail is faint and climbs 2,800 feet, so it is still slow going.

Since water is sometimes infrequent, I start soaking my hiking shirt every time I fill water bottles. I figure that the evaporative cooling is just as good as sweating, and eliminates the need for my body to drink, absorb and then sweat the water. Besides, the cold shock of putting on a damp shirt is fantastic.

My feet continue to blister. I drain them morning, noon, and evening. The blisters on the pads might be getting tougher, as is one inside my little toe. New blisters have started on the top of my foot, just before the big toe. Weird. I've never had blisters there before.

I pretty much put on the knee brace mid-morning every day now. I start each day without the brace to strengthen the knee and then brace it at the first sign of pain.

Fran is waiting with the RV at the base of the next climb. We hoped to get there tonight, but come up about six miles short. We have used about 1.5 of the three pad days, not as bad as it looked at first, but still, that leaves little cushion for the next 200 miles.

13 miles to Trail Gulch Junction, to mile 155.

Scary Snow!

We were warned by another hiker yesterday that the deer here are aggressive and crave salt. Sure enough, WILDCAT woke up this morning to his shirt dripping with deer slobber and two buttons missing. I thought it was stinky before, but now it is truly yukky!

Today's climb is extremely steep, 2,500 feet in just two miles (since we came up short yesterday, it will be 3,000 feet in three miles).  For reference, the Pacific Crest Trail is designed for a maximum 12% grade, while this section is 24%.

We get an early start and begin the climb. With little shade and no water sources, it is still a hot, slow trudge with our packs full of food and water, but we get it done.

Near the top, we meet a family on their way down. Their leader quickly queries if we know about the snow. We stare back with blank faces, asking what snow.

This is one of the areas of the trail that I worried about because of a steep northern slope that would retain snow. A couple of months ago it had nine to eighteen feet of snow. I was quite concerned, so WILDCAT and I both packed our ice axes and crampons. But the melt was very rapid, and so far we had only crossed little snow drifts around 8,000 feet elevation. I had dismissed concern about snow and forgotten all about this area.

The leader said that the north face is covered in snow so travel is extremely dangerous. He spent the prior day scouting out and marking a safe route to the west that weaved around the snow.

Still, we were stunned when we crossed over the top and looked down towards Caribou Lake. An unbroken snowfield dropped about 600 feet directly from the top. Without our ice-axes and crampons, that would be absolute suicide. We began searching to the west for the route that the other hiker had described. The snowfield was contained in a bowl so the slope to the west had a little more sun exposure and less snow. We very carefully picked our way along the jagged rock ridge, occasionally seeing the tracks of the group that came up. For a couple of hours, we slowly progressed down, following narrow bands of rock between the snow, and crossing smaller, safer snow fields.

I couldn't help but wish I had my ice-axe. With that I might have glissaded straight down the snow chute, having a blast and getting down in no time at all.

To get lined up for tomorrow's climb in the morning, we now need to make some serious miles. The climb up and the descent around snow were both very slow going, netting under four miles by early afternoon. The trail out from Caribou Lake is good and well maintained as this is a popular overnight hike with locals, so we circle the lakes and then bang out eight miles to the Big Flat Campground.

As we begin to doze off, just sleeping under the stars in our sleeping bags, I hear a noise and sit up. Just 15 feet away a startled small black bear hurries away in a panic. He obviously thought the camp was abandoned since there were no tents and he came in for a look. He doesn't return all night.

The reality of the challenge of this trail is settling in. The level of skill and fitness required is well beyond any trails that WILDCAT or I have encountered previously. It is fun but in a perverse sort of way.

13 miles to the Big Flat campground, to mile 142.

Climb!

Today starts with a 4,000-foot climb in just 5.5 miles!  It takes us six hours to get to the top.

Just over the top, the conifer diversity explodes. Without even stepping off the trail or searching hard, I identify a dozen different species, including pines, firs, hemlock, spruce, and cedar.

The trail down is overgrown and slow going. It is not clear how many miles we will make today, but the plan was to reach Portuguese Camp at mile 126 so that we are lined up for a major climb in the early morning tomorrow. We might not make it that far, but we want to push hard to line up that climb as best we can. We are in the first of a four day series of stiff climbs, usually with hot southern exposures, so we really want to keep to the plan to avoid hot afternoon climbs. But we can only make whatever miles the trail allows us to make.  As the sun sets, we halt at Stewart Creek, about 1.5 miles short of the target.

13 miles to Stewart Creek, to mile 128

Swim!

We hike the seven miles on paved road into Junction City, a tiny hamlet. We eat our lunches in front of the forest fire crew station and chat with the crew. The lead had vaguely heard of the Bigfoot Trail and mentioned that there was going to be some presentation or talk to learn more about it. He hopped onto the internet and explored the Bigfoot Trail Alliance website, so we have done a little work as trail ambassadors.

The fire crew lead mentioned that there are several great swimming holes along the Canyon Creek road that we will hike. Michael's guide says the area is private property with no trespassing signs, but we made mental notes to find the swimming holes.

The road was hot, paved and uphill. Once we found the first swimming hole, we ambled off the road and headed to the river on a well-used local trail. The concerns about private property seemed misplaced - they refer to gold prospecting claims, and indeed there are flecks of gold in the sandy creek bottom. The road has a nice pull out so I sent a text to Fran to meet us there.

Swimming and relaxing in the river was far more enjoyable than hiking the hot road. We spent the afternoon, and then I had a great idea!  On the second day of our hike, we had logged five bonus miles due to missing a junction and having to backtrack. I proposed that we redeem those five miles now, and skip up to the Ripstein Campground at the end of the pavement!  WILDCAT loves the logic of it. So after a nice swim, we ride up the hot road in the RV to the forested campground for a nice dinner of chili and cornbread with fresh berry pie and ice cream for dessert!

This was our last chance for slack-packing. The next section is road-less again, so we go back to hauling our backpacks.

20 miles to Ripstein Campground, to mile 112

The elusive Margarita

City roads transition to a gradual climb up a gravel forest road. Water is frequent, and shade is ample, so the hike quite enjoyable. We cross over the top and part way down the other side until we reach pavement and the trusty RV.

The RV is about seven miles south of Junction City, a tiny hamlet. Since WILDCAT had his heart set on a Margarita, Fran researched and found a Mexican restaurant in Weaverville another ten miles to the east. She drove us over, despite slow road construction. But the Mexican restaurant had a sign on the door saying it was closed because the waitress didn't come to work today! Skunked again! We decided to try the Chinese restaurant instead, but it was inexplicably closed despite the posted hours. We headed to the pizza place and placed our order. Next door was the only bar in town, so we checked in for the elusive Margarita. The owner/bartender promised she could make a great Margarita, though she didn't have a blender. She just shook the Margarita with ice and poured it into a glass to serve. That's not a real frozen Margarita.

Hmm. The Margarita hunt will have to continue.

19 miles to Soldier Creek, to mile 92.

Hayfork

We leave the RV and hike up a remote forest road, enjoying the leisurely stroll and learning the conifers. Just five miles in, we turn a corner onto a better road and find Fran and the RV again. Instant rest break! Iced Tea!  WILDCAT says I'm ruining his reputation with the slack-packing but he seems very enthusiastic. I didn't slack-pack on any of my three Triple Crown hikes. In my mind those National Scenic Trails are different, and for me, it was important to connect all of the footsteps and hike with a full pack. But somehow slack-packing parts of the Bigfoot Trail seems okay.

Heading into Hayfork, we have a choice of a direct walk along Highway 3 into town or a longer remote walk on dirt forest roads. We opt for the latter, both for safety and enjoyment. Part way up a local person stops to query where we are hiking to and insists that we are going the wrong way to reach Hayfork. He is unaware that the dirt roads lead over the hills and drop into the town.

As hikers head into town, the talk invariably moves to food. Knowing there is a Mexican restaurant ahead, WILDCAT is fantasizing about a frozen Margarita. Unfortunately, we soon discover that the Mexican restaurant is closed.  No Margarita today!

12 miles to Highway 3, to mile 58.