Yesterday is gone, tomorrow is unknown. Make today meaningful, and life is worthwhile.

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Lake of the Clouds - July 31

Currently an AT thru hiker is missing a hundred miles north in Maine. An older woman, she has been missing since August 24. That situation is very troubling.

I took a late morning start into a stiff climb. It was not too bad, a bit strenuous but not hands-on-rocks climbing like Kinsman Mountain was.

What a glorious hiking day! Largely above treeline, there's great views all day. The sun often pokes through, and the clouds are constantly changing.

I wish I was less worried about the weather as I scan the clouds primarily to foretell the rain and wind, and miss some of their pure majesty.

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Zeacliff Ridge - July 30

Today looks pretty moderate for the White Mountains.  There's just one climb up from the Hut and then a reasonable trail (by AT standards) all day long. I don't have to focus as intently on the trail and I chat with lots of hikers and hear their stories, especially one guy who just retired Army with five deployments in Iraq. Sadly, he is decidedly pessimistic about the future of both Iraq and Afghanistan.

Maybe I should have focused a bit more. I fell several times and banged up my shin. I have a welt an inch across that rises half inch high within 60 seconds. But I quickly get an Ace elastic bandage on it and an half hour later it doesn't hurt too bad. 

14.7 miles to Crawford Notch

Monday, July 29, 2013

Mt Lafayette - July 29

The White Mountains are tough. But the morning climb is okay, more like stair climbing than the rock climbing of yesterday. Spoon catches up with me and we hike together most of the day. 

Mt Lafayette is amazing, with a great expansive ridge-walk for several miles. It is very exposed so we keep watching the clouds as they swirl above and below. Some are very dark, not shaped like thunderheads but still threatening a heavy rain. The wind and temperature remain moderate so we judge that we are okay despite the exposure.

Sunday, July 28, 2013

Blues in the Morning - Mt. Moosilauke, July 28

From Spirit's perspective...

I was feeling blue.  Steady had started hiking for the day.  Although we were meeting in the evening, I missed his company.  I was also thinking back to the hiking friends who had stood us up for dinner last night.  Another missed opportunity for good conversation.  And my ankle hurt so much when I got up this morning, I couldn't walk.  Another lonely day loomed ahead of me.

When Steady returned from his decent of Mt. Moosilauke last night, he spoke of the rugged beauty of the trail.  He spoke of creeks, waterfalls and boulders cascading down the steep mountain face. It's one of the most beautiful sections of the trail, he said.  He urged me to try the hike up the trail.  But we both knew it was dangerous for my weak ankle.  The blues today also came from thinking of all the sections of the trail that I would never share with him. 

While eating my breakfast I knew that the only way to shake these feelings were to get out on the trail.  I had done a few 2 hour out and back hikes from trailheads.  I'd even completed a four mile loop.  Each time I felt more whole, more refreshed. So I overcame my hesitation, laced up my hiking shoes, picked up my outriggers (hiking poles) and stepped out of the RV.  I decided to hike an hour and see how far that would take me.  

Within the first few hundred feet I got my shoes wet and muddy from a stream crossing.   Good, one less thing I have to worry about.  I'm already dirty. 

The trail progressed easily with only minor rocks and tree roots to remind me that I'm on the AT.  I was enjoying the fresh breeze and the soft green light filtering through the dense canopy of trees.  I felt nimble striding over streams and crossing rough wooden bridges. 

I met two day hikers coming down the trail towards me.  We discussed the warnings on the sign posted on the tree in front of us. "This trail is extremely tough.  If you lack experience please use another trail.  Take special care at the cascades to avoid tragic results."  The hikers confirmed the warning, saying that they would not like to make the descent during the anticipated afternoon rain. With their wishes for a safe hike, I walked on. 

The trail immediately got steeper.  My outriggers served me well in navigating the almost vertical rock stairs.  I had fleeting thoughts that I didn't earn the right to be here.  I hadn't done the 1800 miles to get here.  My legs weren't strong and my ankle might not hold me up.  But I put those doubts aside as I reached the first waterfall. 

Joy erupted as I sat on the smooth granite bank in the midst of the cascade. Breathing in the sound and the force of the water washed away the blues. Ahh, have I reached my destination for the day? Surely this is enough.  Naw, that familiar spirit to see what's around the next bend overtook me.  

I didn't think that the trail could get any steeper, but it did.  I was rewarded with ever more waterfalls, unseen until I scaled the next rock face.  When I reached a vertical face with three rebar loops to assist in the climb, I paused for a moment.  Shortening the length of my poles, I started the ascent. Carefully placing each foothold, I hoisted myself up until I reached a rocky ledge 20 feet above. 

With a limited view of the distant mountains through the treetops,  I sat next to the stream in peaceful contemplation.  I had walked an hour and was satisfied that I had truly reached my destination.  It was okay that the mountaintop and waterfalls above were out of my reach.  With gratitude that such natural beauty exists, I started my descent. 

I walked taller and with a surer foot on my return.  Taller, not because I had  conquered a steep trail or my doubts.  Taller, because I was infused with the spirit of the forest in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

Kinsman Mountain - July 28

There was very little hiking today. Only the last few miles were actual walking. The rest was all steep rock climbing, or skipping on rocks through mud. This was the toughest day of hiking so far. Much of it was hard work that yielded less than a mile an hour. 

Several times as I lunge up and forward I teeter momentarily. That's pretty scary as falling backwards could be a long fall into rocks. Not good.

Saturday, July 27, 2013

Mt Moosilauke - July 27

We're definitely in the White Mountains now. The climb up to Mt Moosilauke is a steady relentless climb, but not difficult because it is good trail. Without tough footing, it is just like climbing the stairs to the top of a 400 story building with a pack on. Piece of cake. 

The top is alpine terrain, reaching above the tree line as Balsam firs and Red Spruce shrink to eight feet, then three feet, and then are gone, providing a wonderful open 360 degree view which is so rare on the AT.  I can see more rugged mountains to the north, challenges for the next week. 

It's a beautiful Saturday afternoon so the mountain top has perhaps 50 day hikers who came up an easier side trail. It's great to see so many people enjoying the outdoors.  

I summited at 2:15 and enjoyed lunch at the top and then accidentally added some bonus miles by dropping down 1000 feet on the wrong trail. I got to see the summit again at 4:00!

The descent (the correct one) was amazing as the trail plunges straight down next to cascades and waterfalls. The water is a nonstop series of jaw dropping spectacles.

This is easily the prettiest stretch of the AT yet.

13.9 miles to Kinsman Notch

Friday, July 26, 2013

The Whites are Coming - July 26

The hills keep getting bigger, with about 4,000 feet of climbing today. That's a prelude to the White Mountains - tomorrow I face that much gain just climbing Mt Mossilauke in the morning.

Thursday, July 25, 2013

Croquet - July 25

A funny thing happened on the way to Smarts Mountain. A little sign along the trail said "Free Ice Cream and Croquet". I couldn't partake of the ice cream (conflict with doxycycline) but figured I'd check the place out.

Bill Ackerly's house is just a hundred feet off of the trail. He's an older guy full of positive energy that loves to chat with hikers, and play croquet.

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Hanover NH - July 24

Ambitious day. One shelter is 17 miles up the trail (too few) but the next one is 24 (too many). In the sweet spot of 20'ish sits Norwich VT, so that's the target. 

The first five miles are tough up and down and I make just 1.8 mph. Uh oh. Then I hit lots of patches of muddy trail, also slow going.  But about seven miles in everything cleared up with good tread and moderate grade. I shifted gears and made up for lost time. Yep, my higher gears are back!

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Woodstock - July 23

We woke to heavy rain, forecast to last all morning with warnings for high water throughout the day. 

I'd already heard that the next section can be muddy so I opted out of hiking into the rain.

Monday, July 22, 2013

Fresh Start - July 22

The hike begins again. I feel ready. Today will be a test.

It's a good stretch of trail with moderate up and down, and sections of good tread. I have a light pack again. A while back this would have been an easy day, but it will be bigger than I have done for quite a while. 

Sunday, July 21, 2013

Saturday, July 20, 2013

Probation - July 20

The jailer let me slack pack from RV to RV. I just carried the basic outdoor essentials and lunch, less than ten pounds. 

I'm seeing some hikers from prior weeks, since I've been stalled for a while. A while ago I met two hikers from Puerto Rico. We talked about water recreation, snorkeling, swimming, scuba diving, and kayaking. Puerto Rico sounds like paradise for water activities. I have a saying: any day outdoors is a good day; any day on the water is even better. We just added Puerto Rico to our future travel list. 

Spirit saw lots of familiar faces:

Friday, July 19, 2013

Pills - July 19

Part of the love of traveling and long hikes is the simplicity of life. Complications and structure fade away leaving just the basic elements of living. 

And then the pills showed up. 

"Take with food"
"Take 1 hour before or 2-3 hours after food"
"Do not take in combination with calcium including milk products"
"Do not lie down for 10 minutes"
Four pages of instructions.