The Gorges

We boarded the boat in Chonquin, and rode it for two nights and two days. The first stretch is nothing spectacular, but is a nice peaceful boat ride. Unfortunately the rain kept us under cover a bit more than we wanted, but it was still enjoyable. We spent most of the time up on top. Wrapped in raincoats, it was still enjoyable to get out in the air, to see the river, to see the views. In fact, we inadvertently panicked our guide when he did a nose-count and couldn't find us!

The pretty part is the second day. To start the day, there is a side trip up a smaller river to the Lesser Three Gorges. This is the most beautiful part of the trip (check out our photo page!). The river is quite narrow and swift, and smaller boats are used for this trip. The river runs fast, curves, turns under, bounces off of rock faces, scoops up shoals, and joins in big standing waves (class 2.5). To get up the stream, the captain needs to read the water just right, avoiding the rocks and the most powerful currents. At one point, the crew must help to pole the boat through a narrow and powerful current. At another, all of the passengers must exit and walk around a bend to lighten the boat.

The Lesser Gorges are full of mist, with hints of successive hills behind each other. The gorge walls are green with ferns and moss. We see monkeys in trees along one cliff. Swallows inhabit another cliff. Waterfalls tumble down the sides. The boat pushes on.

We stop for lunch at a frenzied shore bank full of food vendors. The smells and shouts fill the air. Buckets of live fish serve as the menus. The pay toilets are filthy, and drain into the river. The boat will stop for just 30 minutes. We settle down for a quick lunch. Back on the boat, we are still missing three people, and wait to leave. 35 minutes, 40, 45. At fifty minutes, the guide spots the missing people talking and eating slowly at a lunch table, and tells them to come. We expect them to quickly join the boat. Instead, in full view of everyone waiting, they continue to slowly eat their meal, talking and joking. The boat waits. The guide visits them again, and we can hear the shouting. They continue eating. Finally, after 70 minutes, they join the boat and we move on. We think to ourselves of the number of times we have seen Chinese go out of their way to help someone, but then also of the number of times they have total disregard for others.

Back on the ferry, we head through the bigger Three Gorges. We can see numerous villages and cities along the river. Most are quite high up the shore, having been chased up the river bank by centuries of flooding. Very few structures are even close to the water level. We read that millions of people will need to be relocated before the reservoir fills, but it appears to us that many are already high enough. Periodically along the shore are signs proclaiming 150 meters, presumably the flood level at that site. In some areas, there are recent ruins below the sign level, where previous lives have been left behind, and new shiny buildings are higher up the hill.