Yesterday is gone, tomorrow is unknown. Make today meaningful, and life is worthwhile.

Thursday, March 28, 2002

Hill Tribes

Thailand has been a destination for refugees for a long time. In fact, the origins of Thai culture can be traced to people in southern China who fled the invasion of the northern Mongols. In the past hundred years, Thailand has been the destination for Burmese, Chinese (including one division of the KMT army, the other of which is in Taiwan), Nepal, Laos and Cambodian. Currently, about one million refugees live in 50 refuge camps along the borders.

In the northern country, many hill tribes have lived for decades or even hundreds of years in Thailand’s mountains, refuges from nearby countries. Until recently, these villages were very isolated and remote, with the most primitive of living conditions. They spoke their own languages, and practiced animistic religions. While Thailand was generally quite tolerant and accepting of these peoples, there were difficulties. Many of the tribes, especially the Hmong, grew opium. Initially this was encouraged during WWII, to produce morphine. However, after the war it was learned how to make heroin instead, and Thailand was one of the three members of the Golden Triangle that produced the vast majority of the world's opium. Also, the agricultural practices of most of the tribes were very destructive to the forest. Each year, a new area was cut and burned for crops and opium. The tribes moved as each area was exhausted.

In the 1950's, Thailand began formulating a plan to deal with the hill tribes. They brought in an Australian to help set it up. He identified many important steps, including education and medical efforts. He also includes some steps that fortunately were not acted upon (including improving the "morality" of the tribes, reminiscent of Australian treatment of Aborigines or American treatment of Native Americans). Opium production was declared illegal, and enforcement and education efforts begun.

Initial progress was very slow. In the 1970's, Thailand made a very serious effort to eradicate opium growing, using vast funding from the US. The corrupt politicians and police were stopped, the drug warlords ousted, and the opium fields destroyed. Unlike so many efforts elsewhere in the world, it had the funding and the perseverance to succeed. Essentially no opium is grown in Thailand today, even though Laos and Burma are still very active. Part of the reason tourists need to stay back a bit from the borders is that warlords with private armies still exist across the borders, and occasionally will cross a few kilometers into Thailand.

Lacking opium, the hill tribes need some source of income. They are largely self sufficient, growing rice and vegetables and hunting, but they are unimaginably poor. The government subsidizes education and medical treatment for the hill tribes, but the long-term solution requires developing a replacement source of income.

The King and Queen have taken a strong interest in the plight of the hill tribes. As one Thai told us, most Thais have never seen the King or Queen in person. However, most of the hill tribe villagers have. There are extensive Royal Projects, funded and managed by the King separately from the Thai government. The King can be seen checking in on trial agricultural projects, such as coffee, flowers, and vegetables. The Queen is involved in reforestation efforts and education.

A key goal is to get the villagers to settle in one place, and limit the destruction of forest. This is a huge issue --Thailand had 45% of its forest intact a couple of decades ago, and it is just 25% now and still shrinking. To do this, schools and clinics have been put in the villages, along with other government services. Roads, phones, and electricity are reaching the villages.

The result is really quite impressive. Thailand is largely free from the racial divides of the US. The Thais are trying to help the hill tribes preserve their cultures, while also joining into the modern world. So far, there seems to be a good balance.