Leroy's turn: Deer Island

As if the hospitality yesterday was not enough, this morning Leroy picked us up and took us to breakfast and shared lots of great stories from his times in Germany, Tennessee and Texas. He has made the most of every day of his 80 years. Delightful breakfast.

An expert kayaker, Leroy lives in the perfect place. With his house directly on the canal he can shove off from backyard and explore. One day he logged nearly 30 miles just meandering through the maze of little creeks within a few miles of his house.

Southern Hospitality: Suwannee

We faced a big open mud flat again this morning. We took many trips out to the water's edge, hauling one boat at a time to the water's edge, and then several trips with the IKEA bags stuffed with gear. Over an hour later, we were ready to launch (and already tired from the slog).  Have I mentioned that we have too much stuff?

We set out and take forever to find deep water.  Check that; we do not find deep water. 

Sail Away, Sail Away, Sail Away: Shired County Park

The extreme low tides persist in the morning, and Horseshoe Bay is described as a maze of Oyster Bars in the Guidebook. Sure enough, looking out this morning we figured we could undo the gelcoat repairs I made in Steinhatchee in just a few minutes.

The marine weather forecast today is for a 20 knot tailwind. We chose to ride the wind across the bay rather than follow the perimeter.

Let's talk about food...

I'm really liking the way the food planning and prep is turning out.  Rod really freed me when he said..."don't make up individual meals, just cook the way that you do at home.  Just use ingredients."

So I took the one pot meal methods of the backpacking cookbook to an extreme.  I packed up rice, quinoa, red lentils and whatever grains, pastas and quick cooking beans that I had in the cupboards. Then I packed the mountain of dried food that I'd prepared.  Spices are in individual snack bags and packed into one quart freezer bag.  I also have salt & pepper, butter buds and oil (though I do need to find a better leak-proof container for the oil).  

When it comes time to cook dinner, I pull out the pot and start inventing.  I put a grain (or main ingredient) into the pan then add dried food and flavorings.  One favorite is 1/2 red lentil and 1/2 rice or quinoa.  The lentils cook fast and make a nice thick rice dish.  I like this method because I can be creative and I don't have to spend any time planning.

Its not a three course meal, but it fills the belly.  It's tasty and nutritious.

I have two food bags ...one for breakfast/lunch and one for dinner.  What's really sweet is that I can easily carry two weeks of food so that I don't have to stop for resupply so often.

Weight? Yes it's heavy, but I don't find that it makes much difference in maneuvering.  The boats are too heavy to carry when loaded, but that would still be true if you carried half of the food.

In search of Water: Butler Island

We've been doing very well so far timing our paddling with the tide. We usually had current with us on rivers, and haven't had any problems at campsites with low water.

Until today.

Neptune, Don't Take My Kodachrome Away: Sink Creek

We rose early in anticipation of meeting up with Liz.  It wasn't too difficult to break camp...climb out of the nice clean sheets and waddle over to the hot shower.  Ah, such luxury.

Liz and Melissa, her videographer, arrive at 9.  As we set up for the interview, I comment that with all of the wind and rain the water has been cloudy and we haven't seen much of the expected sea life.

"When is the best time to visit the Big Bend?" I ask.  "March, but then in October you get the large flocks of birds migrating through. I guess we are still waiting for the weather because the only two blue sky days were when we left St. Marks and the next.  As Tim the motel owner said, we must have lost some bet.

Liz and Melissa video as we packed the boats.  We made arrangements for meeting up at the end of the day at Sink Creek Campground.  They filmed from 2 locations as we paddled away, waving our goodbyes to the good people of Steinhatchee.

The paddling was mostly uneventful.  The weather was favorable and we made good time.  Since we had only 10 miles to cover we took more time to notice things along the way.  About three miles from camp we saw an island with a sign, that as we neared was indeed a stop sign.  Since I thought it rather humorous to see a stop sign on a deserted bit of land almost big enough to call an island, I stopped to take a picture.  Not heeding the sign, we also nosed onto shore for a brief pee break.

We reached the lovely treed camp at about 2:30 and saw that Liz and Melissa had not arrived yet. We paddled the extra distance to the boat ramp they would be launching from. As we were saying our greetings, I reached for the camera to photograph their departure.  The camera was not in my PFD, nor was it in the boat. Was it a gift to Neptune or was it on the island? Rod and I decide to paddle back to see if se can find it. Liz, bless her heart, says "Fine. We'll go on to camp, start a fire and have your dinner ready for you when you get back."

We didn't find the camera. But we did have an enjoyable evening with Liz & Melissa upon our return.  We watched the sunset over the gulf while the full moon was rising in the east.  Then we sat around the campfire enjoying the leftovers of Liz's Christmas dinner.  Yum.

Distance:  10 + 6 bonus miles

Baby It's Cold Outside: Steinhatchee

 

Steinhatchee, a drinking town with a fishing problem.

We are in Steinhatchee for the day and will be leaving in the morning.  It's been a delightful stay while waiting out the gale force winds and small craft advisories.  Tomorrow promises 5 mph winds from the north...pushing us to the next stop at Sink Creek.

We've made friends with Liz Sparks, the woman who created and supervises the Big Bend Saltwater Paddling Trail.  We initially spent a lot of time on the phone talking logistics.  I mentioned that I would like to meet her on the trail.  She also wanted to get video footage of people using the trail for use in promotional presentations.  She previously hiked into one of the camps to do some video and brought hot coffee and breakfast!  What an angel.  She'll be here tomorrow morning with a videographer and will meet us in the afternoon at camp.  It should be a fun day.

We're staying in a motel as there aren't campsites in town.  The first words from the owners mouth when we told him about the journey was "What bet did you all lose?  There ain't nothin' on my bucket list that comes any where close to what y'all are doing."  He's a great guy with a big heart and soon took us out to the American Legion hall for drinks.

I must say that after only a week the showers at the motel were very welcome.  And the warm bed seems like a luxury after the (literally) freezing temperatures in the tent.  It's been cold!   We started off without drysuits.  It was sunny and we had left them in the car to save space in the boats.  Bad decision. Getting out of the boats wet and shivering at the end of the day got old fast.  We managed to get our suits courtesy of Captain Mike and are much happier.  We could not have done some of the paddling we did without them.

Distance: 0
High 70, Low who cares -we're in a motel!
Wind 25-30, gusts to 40, overcast some rain

Christmas Paddle: Steinhatchee

Today was a good test. We faced 15 mph headwinds and moderately choppy water. We still cruised easily at 2.2 mph, and Rod was able to sprint at 4 mph, so there seems to be plenty of margin left.

Our planning assumption were the we could paddle in 15 mph headwinds, and 20 mph tail, abeam or quartering. So far that seems fine. I had compared those assumptions to ten years of daily weather statistics and estimated that we will have 20-25% non-paddling days, and that is dialed into the itinerary.

The water is cloudy, so not much to see except the birds.

We paddle up the Steinhatchee River for the night.

Distance: 8 miles
High 70, Low 45  partially sunny AM, then thunder storms and rain
Wind 10-15 headwind, then abeam.

A fine and pleasant paddle: Dallus Creek campsite

Nice easy paddle today. Early start, early finish.

Dallus Creek campsite is Hog Heaven! Unfortunately I mean that literally. As we paddle to the beach, we can see the sand torn up, big pits where the pigs rummaged, plants with their roots bare, and grass torn up.  Feral pigs are a serious environmental problem.

With each day we adjust what we wear to keep warm. Paddling isn't too bad with our full body dry suits. But at night it is dang cold. The tent is a summer tent, meaning just mosquito netting with a rain fly. My sleeping bag is an ultra-light summer bag rated for 45F. At night I zip my coat closed and stuff the foot of the bag into it. That adds enough to keep the feet warm. Then I wear a fleece top and wool hat, and am good to go.

I've updated the prior posts to add temperature and wind. The coldest night so far was 24F.

Distance: 8.0 miles
High 70, Low 45
Wind 5-10

A cold slog: Sponge Point

A slow news day. Some breeze until late in the day and quite cold, but easy conditions.

We have to paddle way offshore due to oyster bars that reach out into the gulf. We were in a bit closer yesterday and scratched the boats on oyster shells. The shells are very near the surface of the water, extending out from the shore in long bars, and crossing over them produces a very distressing scratching sound as the oysters gouge the gel coat.

So today we are farther offshore. Out that far there is limited opportunity to view shore wildlife. Late in the day we see a flock of pelicans travel in one line, like a ribbon of birds. Just as a single pelican in flight will bob up and down, so the ribbon undulates. Pretty cool to watch.

Distance 12.5
High 63, Low 26
Wind 10 dropping to 5

Back on the road again: Spring Warrior campsite

As evening approached yesterday and we readied to spend the third night at this tiny campsite, up paddled two kayaks. Clint and Cory, clad in shorts and a jacket, arrive from Aucille Launch. Since we held back from paddling today, tonight the camp is reserved for them. Liz had thought they would not launch given the weather and we could probably stay. But they are very friendly and quickly sort out a place to tent.

They report that the conditions are not too bad. They had a tailwind and mild chop so needed some boat control but nothing too hard. We were disappointed to hear that conditions were that mild. We could have easily paddled. Now we are on the same schedule as Clint and Cory so we decide to paddle a double today to get back a day ahead of them and not be in their way.  Good grief, another double!

Clint has done ultra-light backpacking and applied that knowledge to kayaking. That is encouraging. We spend so much time tending to our mountain of gear. I long for simplicity.

We start the day with a special treat. Liz hiked in with hot coffee and hot breakfast. Yes!  Trail Angel! She wanted to get video footage of paddlers in the new campsite.

We take lunch at Rock Island, and then paddle on to Spring Warrior. Pretty uneventful. Cloudy moderate breeze. Cold.  The water on day one was 65F. Today it was 46F. Being so shallow it changes temperature very rapidly. We arrive at sunset and quickly set up camp in fading light.

We are pretty spent and asleep before 8PM.

Distance 22.5 miles
High 61, Low 24   BRR!

Wind 5

Another zero day: Econfina River

The weather forecast last night and this morning is unchanged with 20 mph winds through the night. We will take another zero. We take the opportunity to rendezvous with Captain Mike to swap some gear, putting the warm weather stuff in a package for him to mail later and loading up dry and warm stuff.

Captain Mike thinks that we might be able to paddle today, with some protection from the NW winds. We could take a 20 mph tailwind and current and get a free ride out to the next campsite on Rock Island. The winds calm the next day to allow us to get back inshore. However Liz is much more concerned, and points out that Rock Island is very exposed. We opt for caution, and will need to paddle another double someday to get back on schedule.

We catch up on the blog and work some sewing projects to modify bags to fit the boat better. The day is sunny all day, though there is wind up in the trees and it is cold.

Mileage: 0
High 56, Low 31
Wind 15-20, gusts to 35 

Invisible Storm: Econfina River campsite

We checked the weather forecast last night and it hasn't changed much. We be staying put at least Thursday and maybe Friday too. We'll hope for a local paddle early in the day before the rains comes.

The morning comes with little fanfare at all. Knowing we are taking a zero, we get out of the tent slowly. A wind will rise, and we will think "here it comes". And then nothing. The clouds roll in only to disappear again. We paddle down to the State Park to mosey around. We make a nearly silent paddle, careful that each paddle entry and exit make no sound. Many birds are still in the trees. Don't they know a storm is coming? This is the day of the storm and, well, nothing. Okay, there are palm fronds dropping out of trees, but we have had that at every campsite in Florida, even before we started paddling.

We chat with some fishermen arriving from the gulf. They report that it is very rough out there, even in their boat, and they make sure that we are not going out in our kayaks. Looks like storm has indeed arrived and that we are so well protected we could not tell. Regardless, we stake out the tent with storm lashings and prepare for wind and rain. At about 4PM the first drops fall and we hurry into the tent. By 5PM the torrents hit the tent hard enough that a mist sprays right through the rainfly and tent. 

The storm has arrived.

Mileage: 0
High 73, Low 41 clear changing to stormy
Wind 15-20, gusts 25-30

Daily Double: Econfina River campsite

The NOAA marine weather forecast talks of a storm coming through on Thursday and Friday. Winds will reach 20 to 25 mph on Thursday with gale force winds and heavy rain that night. Friday is similar, with a cold front moving in. We have planned for paddling in 15-20 mph conditions, and our itinerary allows for zero days (no miles) when the weather is more severe.

We sat in the tent last night considering options.  Pinhook camp appears to be at the edge of the trees, but the next campsite after that is several miles up the Econfina River.  That sounds more protected, but means we do double miles, though not excessive. The campsites are small and by reservation only, and we are reserved for Pinhook. Econfina is probably vacant but we are not sure. We opt for the extra miles and decide to use the good weather on Wednesday to get a day ahead, so that we can hole up.

As we packed up, Joe with the St Marks National Wildlife Refuge stopped by to make sure we had heard of the storm. He cautioned us to expect heavy rain, and also warned that if the winds are from the north they will blow the water out into the gulf exposing a large mudflat. We need to make sure our plans account for low water. While we know to take tides into consideration, the idea that winds can drop the water level by a foot and leave an exposed mudflat for a mile offshore is new to us.

We caught the ebb (outgoing) tide to ride out of camp, though we faced a 0.7 knot current against us in the gulf. We both just got into a rhythm paddling and went several hours without a break, and averaged nearly 3 mph. While we knew from months of chart study how shallow the gulf is, it still seems baffling that we can be in three feet of water two miles offshore.

We realize that the push to get to safe ground means we do not have time to explore up the numerous streams. But we camped up one stream last night, will go up another tonight, and still have many days in the Big Bend area. And actually it felt real good to just paddle. It has been too long, since we haven't had time to paddle since the beginning of November, six weeks ago.

We again get help with a flood (incoming) tide pushing us up the river to camp. Only an hour of light remains to land the boats and make camp. The landing is a bit tricky with a muddy scramble up a couple of feet.

The Econfina site is gorgeous, with tall cabbage palms and short palmettos, mixed with pine, tupelo and even a couple of cedar. The site is new one, having been moved further upstream to a drier location. Billed as a primitive campsite, it has a tent platform built as an Eagle Scout project and an unused fire ring and grate. We make camp, again finishing in the dark, and drop to sleep easily.

 

Distance 16 
High 72, Low 34  Clear
Wind 5 mph

Beginnings: St Marks town to Ring Dike campsite

As I stand at the St. Marks dock, looking at the salt march spanning to the horizon, I am filled with emotion.  All of the dreams that led to the planning has led us to this point in time and space. All of the leaving jobs, closing up the house, and farewells to friends and family have left an imprint that I feel at this moment.  As we take that next step into the unknown, I know that we are prepared in body mind and spirit.  I inwardly mark this time with gratitude and get on with packing the boats.

It wouldn't be a kayaking trip without noting that it took forever to load the boats.  It did. 

Final Preparation

Dang, it is nearly showtime.  Are we ready to do this?

My head says there is still a ton to get sorted.  My heart says chill out, we're going to be fine and we can figure out the loose ends enroute.

How did this get so complicated? On our World Trip we moved toward simplicity, abandoning all posessions and embracing unpredictability.  We felt great release, calmness and peace. The thru hikes were also rather simple, once the basic logistical plan was in place.

Why is this one so different?

New Orleans

We stopped in to New Orleans, since neither of us had ever been there.

Lots of fun just stepping from one club to another to find so many different kinds of music. Jazz, Blues, Rock, Cajun bluegrass, oldies, you name it.

It turns out we are not young anymore.  We skip two venues because they are so loud. We don't want to keep up with the one drink minimum at each place (and fortunately most places let us by). We stay up super late, but are in bed by 11.

Lots of fun. Glad we stopped.

Road Warriors

One thing that Fran and I learned when traveling ten years ago was to go slowly, meet local people, and learn the story of a place.  So we drove straight through from Portland to visit my Dad in Indio, and then from there straight to Louisiana in under three days.  Huh?

Our thinking was that we know the west coast, and we spent a full winter roaming the desert southwest. But the South will be new to us, so that is where to spend the time before we start paddling.

As we left California, most of the places along the route were recording temperatures above 70F and nights in the fifties.  Yippee!

Imagine our surprise sleeping in our summer bags under the stars the first night at 24F!  Whoops.

Solar Kayaking

Early in our preparations (like six months ago!), I indentified the need for remote recharging. Unlike thru hiking, we have some electronics that we will really depend on. We must be able to get marine weather forecasts so we know when to stay off the water, we need the VHF radio in case of emergency, and we really do need a GPS in some of the confusing areas such as Ten Thousand Islands.  We will have more than one device for each of these critical needs, since we are dependent upon them.

Then there are other electronics, such as the digital camera, the tablet, and two cell phones.

How do we keep these charged?  There will be occassional town stops to resupply, but can we reliably find someplace to plug in seven devices, and then hang around for several hours?  And can we reliably minimize the use so that the batteries in all of them last up to eleven days between stops?

Our bags are packed and we're ready to go...(sing along) we're leaving on a kayak, don't know when we'll be back again. 

The last week has been hectic to say the least. Such a whirlwind of activity and saying good  byes ...

Sewing drybags. Why does every journey start with a sewing project?