Road-walking - Aug 29

The deciduous tree leaves are aging. The fresh green of early summer is gone. I've seen scattered red maple leaves, but not many. But neither are they still fresh green. I saw my first completely red leaved tree perhaps ten days ago, but that was a dying tree so is not an accurate indicator. Still, I can feel summer coming to a close. 

The IAT has left the woods. Road-walking has begun and will continue into Canada, which after these three days is now just a few miles away.

It feels good to be going to the border. The PCT and CDT both extend from border to border, so somehow the AT seems incomplete. Tomorrow morning, some 3250 miles from Key West, I'll rectify that shortcoming.

Start of IAT - Aug 26

A new beginning, a new trail. 

The IAT (International Appalachian Trail) begins outside of Baxter State Park, leaving an odd 12 mile gap between it and the AT terminus atop Mt Katadhin. Connecting them inside the Park is a combination of trails and road walk, ending with a somewhat faded trail at the east edge of Baxter State Park. 

My first twenty mile stretch of IAT is mostly old abandoned woods roads, and some trail with a couple of stream crossings. The trail portion is occasionally challenging to follow due to disuse, which is quite different from highly eroded, overused AT. I am likely to see few if any other hikers.

AT, PCT, CDT - Aug 25

Having hiked the three major US long trails, how do they compare?

Briefly, the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) remains my favorite. It is the wildest, with the most complete immersion into the outdoors and biggest test of outdoor skills. The Pacific Crest Trail is the most accessible, a great first trail. The Appalachian Trail (AT) is the most challenging physically, but the easiest logistically and has the best network of on and off trail support. 

More specifics follow.

Katahdin - Aug 24

I'm the first out of The Birches camp, at about 6:40 am, and after some logistics start the ascent with Fatty up the Hunt Trail at 7:20 am.

Eleven thru hikers will ascend today, finishing their epic journeys:  Spanky, Warbler, Crush, ET, Running Shoe, Pyrogie, Molly, Finder, Red Rocket, Fatty, and Steady (top row, center). Also ascending are Fatty's Uncle Dwight, Luke and Sam.

The official AT ends at Baxter Peak on Mount Katahdin, and most hikers just then retrace their steps down on the same trail. I'll be going over the mountain and down the other side as I continue on to Canada, and three others plan to join me down. Then we'll all shuttle into town to meet and celebrate.

The Stage is Set - Aug 23

It's all coming together. 

The weather forecast for Saturday is scrumptious.

A great group of hikers is coming up from behind, wonderful people I'd love to summit with. 

I'm lined up for a simple hike today, ready for a big push tomorrow. 

My body's healthy. My spirits are high. 

The group of hikers begin to assemble at the last restaurant before the park, and I join for lunch. 

The walk in is easy and gorgeous. 

The group sits around a final campfire exchanging stories and memories. 

The moon shines bright long after we are asleep. 

Tomorrow we climb Mount Katahdin, the pinnacle ending of the Appalachian Trail.

100 Mile Wilderness - Aug 22

I loved the Wilderness.  I lived the Wilderness. I climbed the mountains, drank from the springs, swam in the lakes, slept in the woods. I hiked most of it alone, and camped most nights alone. 

This was the perfect wrap-up for the Appalachian Trail for me. 

Today I exit the Wilderness, ready to enter Baxter State Park tomorrow. 

Life is good.

Wild - Aug 21

Ah, how I love the wilderness. 

I wake to an incredible red fireball casting an intense glow deep into the trees. The flat lake is a perfect mirror.

The loons are moved by the magnificent sunrise too. The first note of the call is peaceful and melodic, but the second and especially third seem to express a longing or loneliness. The three note calls hang on the water, to the be echoed back by another loon. They sing to the sunrise and to each other. 

Later in the morning an owl and I just sit and stare, eyes locked together, neither in an hurry to move on. I'm close enough to see him blinking. 

In the afternoon I slip into a warm lake and rinse off the trail grim. My refreshed clean skin lifts my spirits high as I hike onward. 

The loons remind me of an article I read on the flight of ducks. The question was how a whole flock of ducks can land at once without bumping into each other. Flying in close formation is one thing but landing in close formation is another; even the Blue Angels land one at a time. 

First the flock circles to approach either due south or due north. That migratory birds have a compass is well established, with magnetite either in their beak or near the pineal gland. The new information is that ducks also have tiny bits of magnetite on their retina. Their visual field superimposes these magnetic markers in much the same way as landing lights at an airstrip. Their head never moves to look down to the ground nor sideways to other birds, but is absolutely fixed level on the horizon throughout the approach and landing as they keep the magnetic markers lined up. Amazing stuff.

The wilderness eases my spirit into a great peacefulness. The simplicity sooths the soul and the complexity fascinates the intellect. Both produce awe. 

Live close to the land and the spirit is whole and good. 

19.5 miles to trailside in between Pollywog Stream and Rainbow Stream. 

Excitement Builds - Aug 20

You could feel it starting over a week ago.

"Can you see it from here?"

"Do you think it's that one?"

Stretching the eyes and imagination, that distant mountain might be Katahdin, the end of the Appalachian Trail.

"When do you plan to summit?"

"I don't know yet, maybe two weeks."

Another week passes. The excitement continues to build. The mountain now dominates the horizon, big and massive though still 50 trail miles way.

Frogs - Aug 19

I understand that frog populations have been declining for the past decade or two. You'd never know it in Maine. 

There are frogs everywhere, hopping along the trail, diving into ponds, scampering into the brush. Green ones, brown ones, orange ones, zillions of frogs. 

Would someone please let the scientists know that the frogs aren't dying off, they're just moving to Maine?

Underestimation - Aug 18

I figured 6 days for 100 Mike wilderness, so packed food for 4 days for the first 60 miles.  I want this to be my finale for the AT, taking time to enjoy the surroundings, swim, and breadth in the wilderness. 

Unfortunately I underestimated the rocks, roots and mud. My view is just of my feet and my pace too slow to allow much extra time to relax. 15 miles is a full day of just walking.

Entering 100 Mile Wilderness - Aug 17

I debate whether to do the 100 Mile Wilderness as a single stretch or with a resupply. I like idea of maximizing my last wilderness camping. But it may be 6 or 7 days of hiking so I opt to resupply at 60 miles.

The trail is much slower than I expected, full of rocks and roots. I also took some time lounging around to enjoy waterfalls and rivers with Bombardier, Bella, Bird, and Running Shoe. I'm a little behind, but that's okay.

Another day in paradise.

Germ Warfare - Aug 16

Another nonstop glorious day with easy miles. 

Now that I'm off of doxycycline the bacteria will recolonize my intestine. Rather than a smooth process, it is a chaotic contest where every germ fights for a toehold. My intestine is a battlefield for germ warfare.

Spirit suggested yogurt but I forgot. I'll try that the next time we met up. In the meantime I root for the good germs.

22 0 miles.

Highly Evolved Old Men - Aug 15

I spent the morning planning the next leg, from the end of the Appalachian Trail to Halifax since Spirit is off to Bangor, our last chance to print maps and guides.

Back on the trail, I am learning how highly evolved old men are. I quit trimming the hair sprouting out of my nose and ears and have much fewer problems with gnats! I rarely snort one anymore. My bushy look is one of high evolutionary development, to be proud of I'm sure.

Kennebec Ferry - Aug 14

Today is my first day with no doxycycline.  I don't have to fast for three hours in the afternoon. That has been a challenge as the blood sugar ran low, legs wobbled and my brain went fuzzy. Sometimes I tried hiking faster than the speed of thought and fell over. I also don't have to half sleep, watching the clock for my nighttime dose. Bye-bye doxycycline. 

Maine is chock full of wonderful lakes, ponds, and streams. It's perfect moose country, a great section of the trail, and another highlight.  Every since entering New Hampshire I've been just loving the natural beauty. Or is it ever since the doxycycline knocked out my Lyme disease?

Flagstaff Lake - Aug 13

I'm out early to beat the forecasted rain, which starts around noon and is light to moderate all day. 

I read about beach campsites on Flagstaff Lake. At the lake, the rain lets up and a calm reflection of the clouds and sun sets across the water.

Stratton - Aug 12

Today presented another good hiking day. Maybe it was a tad less tough and less spectacular than yesterday, but any day outdoors is a good day. 

I reached the rendezvous with Spirit at 3:30. I'm starting to be able to increase the miles. I considered hiking onward for more miles today, but instead take a nap.

We had dinner with some other hikers in Stratton. It gives Spirit a night off and is a chance to talk with other hikers, but the food Spirit prepares is always better than what we find in restaurants. I'm happily spoiled. 

14.5 miles to Hwy 27 near Stratton, ME

Inchworm - Aug 11

Inchworm, a 66 year old hiker from Tennessee, disappeared July 22. Despite two weeks of intense searching, including hundreds of volunteers, dogs, horses and helicopters, and culminating in a shoulder-to-shoulder grid search last weekend, there is absolutely no trace.

The area is rugged, though no more so than trail she had already traversed. She's a skilled backpacker. Everyone is mystified.

Easy - Aug 10

I averaged nearly two miles an hour today. I can't remember the last time I did that. Probably before New England and before Lyme Disease. I stopped early just because I need to resupply for the next three day (two?) section. 

The views continue to change.

Rain - Aug 9

Photo: the trail today

The forecast was 40% chance of thunderstorms last night and 60% chance of thunderstorms today.

It started raining yesterday in the early evening and poured all night. Black Brook was up 18 inches, flooding over the boulders I hopped across yesterday.  It was still raining hard at 7am this morning and finally stopped at 9am. 

We chat with some southbounders who hiked in last night. They report that the trail was a running creek and their descent down Old Blue Mountain was pretty dodgy. The last two hikers were going so carefully they finished an hour after dark. That's a tough day.

Flow - Aug 8

It's a great stay at The Cabin. 

Earl has completely remodeled and expanded the house. Inside and out is all beautiful wood and vaulted ceilings resembling a mountain lodge. The basement is a second living quarters with a ten bed bunkroom.

Earl "Bear" and Maggie "Honey" are well into retirement but work hard to help hikers.  She cooks dinner and he's up at 5am to make breakfast.  Previously hikers themselves, their concern and compassion for hikers is genuine.

The Cabin - Aug 7

It's so hard to predict the trail that I have packed three days of food for a 33 mile stretch. Once I cross the first couple of mountains the trail opens up nicely. I should be able to do more miles today, and southbound hikers are telling me the trail is nice for a little ways further. I'm thinking I can beat my plan. 

But as I cross East B Hill Road there are six southbound hikers at the road waiting for a shuttle to The Cabin and taking about how great the place is.

Perfect Day - Aug 6

What a wonderful day! 

The weather was picture perfect with patches of sun, and the views were amazing as I popped above and below the tree line. Both moraine lakes and beaver ponds dot the highlands. 

I'm increasingly enjoying the rock climbing. I wish I had more experience, but I am getting by. It's fun to climb, though still a bit dodgy descending. 

The Mahoosuc Notch is a famous boulder field described as either the most hard or most fun mile of the entire AT.  I vote for fun.

Entering Maine - Aug 5

Well, yesterday was a treat with a real easy trail. Today it's back to the good ole rocky AT.

I slept in late again, getting 12 hours of sleep. I hope I'm just catching up from poor sleep in the huts and not starting a Lyme Disease relapse. 

I had hoped to hike 12-15 miles but the late start and trail conspire against me. But I do cross a half mile into Maine!

Trident Col campsite - Aug 4

I take the morning to catch up on my blog. I like to stay within a few days and don't want to let memories of the Whites fade. 

Many hikers listen to music while they walk. I've never tried it on a long trail, and am not sure if I'd like it. It might be good for viewless AT sections where all I look at is my feet anyway. Spirit and I come up with an even better idea - audio books. She downloads an audio book player and sets me up to borrow audio books from our hometown library. That might be cool.

Goodbye Presidentials - Aug 3

I got very little sleep last night. The Hut crew was up late, and then a crew friend arrived during the night which got everyone up again, and then another hut crew did a raid in the wee hours. Lots of fun for the hut crew but pretty rough for this hiker that needs his sleep.

Half Day, Half Speed - Aug 2

I slept in late to rest and hiked only a half day, just 6.2 miles to Carter Notch Hut.

The first five miles were hands-on-rock climbing at one mph. It's kind of fun in a way but I'll be glad when it is over. Unfortunately I have no idea when that might be. The southbound hikers say all of Maine is rocky. Maybe New Brunswick?

Northern Presidentials - Aug 1

The weather is forecast to deteriorate later today. Having done our Work For Stay last night, Spoon and I get an early start up to Mt Washington. At the top we get the last glimpses of views as the clouds start to roll in. Splendid! 

Inside the lodge a sign lists 150 deaths on Mt Washington since 1849. The intent is not to be morbid, but to illustrate that the risks are real and hopefully prevent more deaths.  The recent average is two deaths per year, and that's just this one mountain. Only 20% are younger folks that you might think of as more likely to take risks or make mistakes. Most are seasoned folk my age. That's a wake up call. While half are winter tragedies, half occur in the summer. I can't deny that the profile fits. Falls and weather are the most serious risks.