Key West to Halifax - Greatests Moments

We made it! We paddled and hiked for ten months, traversing from Key West Florida to Halifax Nova Scotia.

Read along by clicking on the selections to the right, or scroll on down to read the blog entries from the finish back to the to start.

I'm often asked questions about the trek, and the answers form a nice summary. 

Q. Best Part?

A. Kayaking. We just love the intimacy and physicality of being in nature out on the water.

Q. Scariest moment? 

A. The stormy seas in Sarasota Bay grew beyond the level in which we could do a rescue if we capsized, and worsened while we tried to find a place to bail off of the water. 

Q. Scary animals?

A. We saw alligators, bears and rattlesnakes (and moose, skunks, coyotes and porcupines) but had no serious encounters. The only problems were ticks and mosquitoes. 

Q. Friendly people? 

A. There were lots of friendly people, but Liz Price of the Big Bend paddling trail and the people of Suwannee Florida, Sarasota Florida, St John New Brunswick and Moncton New Brunswick were particularly amazing.

Finish - Sep 29

I haven't seen the Atlantic Ocean since the Florida Keys. Today I see it again. A brilliant blue sky, calm air, and a flat sea. Tranquility. Peace. Calm. 

I stop for a few minutes of quiet solitude. Who can explain the magic serenity that comes from watching the sea? 

Lucy, Craig, and some of their neighbors and co-workers join me for the last couple of miles. It's great to have the company as we chatter about nothing in particular, and walk down the gorgeous coastline.

Your Turn - Sep 28

Tomorrow my trek ends, 286 glorious days paddling and hiking the 4,000 miles from Key West Florida to Halifax Nova Scotia.

Early on we posted our hope that we might inspire you. Too often it seems dreams are deferred to some distant future when it will be easier or more convenient, or one listens too much to those doubting inner voices.

I hoped to show that anything is possible if you commit yourself to your dreams. Maybe yours is to learn the guitar, or design your own house, or grow the perfect rose, or volunteer for a worthy cause. 

You have some little kernel deep in your heart if you listen quietly enough for it to arise. 

Your dream might be both exciting  a bit frightening. "Can I really do that?"

Sunday Finish? - Sep 26

Can I finish on Sunday?  I've been making good time.
Just how many more miles are left? What are the roads like? What will the weather be? 

- Spirit recalculates the miles remaining as of Wednesday night. Just 78. Three twenties and a final eighteen and we're done. 

- Other than a few trail segments the final day, the route is hard pavement. Easy miles, but tough on the feet and legs, which are already sore. I'm going to slow down my pace a bit to reduce stiffness and pain.

Lucky - Sep 25

I'm lucky, like my Dad.

On Monday many miles of the ATV trail consisted of red clay. With rain forecast in the afternoon I could foresee a very slippery trail full of puddles, not to mention sticky, heavy shoes. I pushed hard to beat the rain, and was lucky to reach gravel before it hit.

On Wednesday the forecast was again rain and I pounded hard to beat it.

Which Route? - Sep 23

Very little of the Trans Canada Trail is complete in central Nova Scotia. Other than the Short Line rail to trail, essentially none of the TCT appears to exist yet, except the little stretch near Lucy's house that inspired this trek. 

I'm actually not sure of that. The TCT website may be out of date (it was for New Brunswick) and I haven't had any replies to email to various Nova Scotia organizations (mostly governmental).

And then I'm not sure what I want. When hiking on busy monotonous roads, I decide to switch to wooded ATV trails. Penned in on viewless ATV trails, I look for the openness of roads. Back on the roads my sore feet beg for ATV trails. Stepping through puddles on ATV trails, I long for a well built road.

Autumn - Sep 21

The rose hips stand big and ripe, while the rose leaves shrivel. Grass tassels flitter in the wind, having shed their seeds. Hay is cut, dried and baled, and the fields are green again. The fireweed is spent. The last wild berries won't have enough sun to swell and ripen. The cattails explode into cotton balls. The fawn has lost its spots. No birds announce the morning sun. The winter firewood is stacked and dry. 

The weather seems unsure. It puts forth a day like summer and then a day like a storm, but both are just facsimiles. The wind blows with new strength and the nights bite colder. The skittish weather seems hesitant to cross over, fabricating as many remaining warm days as it can.

Tidal Bore - Sep 20

In a few special places in the world, high tide is inaugurated by an upstream wave, a tidal bore. The Petitcodiac River in Moncton is one of those places.

We see the wave approaching a mile downstream, bending around a curve and then reforming into a charging wall of froth and mud spanning the 100 feet from bank to bank. In no time it was near.

The Fundy Footpath - Sep 18

I enter my most highly anticipated hike within New Brunswick. The Fundy Footpath might be my last extended wilderness on this trek. My feelings are reminiscent of 100 Miles Wilderness in Maine, the last isolated section before the end of the Appalachian Trail. Isolated wilderness is where I thrive.

The trail is described as "challenging" with corresponding warnings. Fourteen river crossings and innumerable small creeks provide some of the challenge, but the main warnings relate to two tidal flat crossings (with thirty foot tides!), ten stiff climbs and some treacherous cliffs.

Dobson Trail and Fundy Park - Sep 15

Ah, easy trail miles. The Dobson Trail is a good trail. Sure there were a few wet spots, but I was able to average 2.5 mph for the day, a rarity for me on the Appalachian Trail. Viewless and in rain, the hiking was mostly just banging out miles, so I was glad they were relatively easy. I'm thankful to all of the trail volunteers. 

Once inside Fundy National Park I encountered a sign that my preferred route was closed. Alonzo had warned me about this. Unfortunately, a nice long stretch down the Upper Salmon River became a road-walk along Hwy 114. Only after I completed the road-walk and reached the Visitor Center did I learn that the trail work was completed a couple of weeks ago and they failed to remove the one sign I encountered.

Moncton People - Sep 12

Today was an amazing day. The walking was fine; the amazing part was the people. Again.

We had breakfast with Alonzo Leger, a bit of a living legend in these parts: he blazed the route for the east half of Fundy Footpath. Possibly no single person knows the trails that I will hike for the next five days better than Alonzo. He even joined me on the morning walk along the Moncton Rivertrail.

In the afternoon Paul Gaudet, the Manager of Interpretive Services at Hopewell Rocks gives us a private tour of that park by golf cart. We get to see 41 foot tides rushing in around the rock pillars, plus lots of amazing videos.

In the evening, Jim deWolfe, a 20 year veteran of the Dobson Trail and past President of the hiking club, knocked on our RV door for a great chat, and then Alonzo and his wife came by for a end-of-day beer.

Wow! Does New Brunswick have the friendliest people in the world or what!

Prudence - Sep 11

On Wednesday, Trevor and I hike our last miles together, along the Fundy Trail up to the start of the Fundy Footpath. This is one of the most scenic stretches of trail I'll hike in the Maritime Provinces, except that it is foggy all day and the views are nonexistent. 

The upcoming Fundy Footpath is a rugged trail. Several of the St John Outdoor Enthusiasts know the trail very well and caution that it is steep and slippery even for advanced hikers, drop-offs are perilous, and tidal river crossings are tricky. The Guidebook echoes the same cautions. 

Unfortunately the weather is deteriorating.  A very wet system is arriving from Ontario, followed by Tropical Storm Gabrielle from Bermuda. The Fundy Footpath cautions against some of the river crossings after heavy rains. Heading into such a challenging and remote wilderness for four days by myself with this upcoming weather does not seem prudent. But I don't want to just sit for three days waiting for the storms to clear.

St John Enthusiasts - Sep 10

For the next four days the TCT is mostly road-walking, so I contacted Trevor, of the St John Outdoor Enthusiasts, to see if there is a better route. 

Trevor went out of his way checking out alternate routes. He pre-hiked routes that seemed promising, redirecting around obstacles like missing bridges. Then he assembled a packet for me with maps with the route drawn on them, printed directions, tide tables and anything else I might need!  He even arranged places to park our RV! Lastly, he's going to hike with me through this section. Pretty amazing.

Kayaking Again - Sep 6

The Trans Canada Trail becomes a water trail for about 60 miles on the St John River, from Oromocto to Grand Bay. 

Spirit and I will be paddling together. Cool! We ride again, reminiscent of paddling our first 700 miles together in Florida.  Spirit somehow pulled dry bags, paddles and camping gear out of some deep recess within the RV, rented a kayak, and we're off!. 

I've been looking forward to this stretch. Any day outdoors is a good day; any day on the water is even better.

Greeters - Sep 3

Yesterday Lucy and Craig drove up from Halifax to welcome us to Canada. The astute reader just flashed on "Halifax", which is the destination of our trek. Yep, our journey leads to their house. 

We had a great time holidaying in Fredericton with our greeters. We took a walking tour along the river, past the old church and the parliament house, and then circled back past grand old homes. 

They brought a birthday cake of cinnamon rolls - real good ones, not too sweet. Very thoughtful, and tasty! 

The next day I hiked into Fredericton on the trail and was greeted by Poul, of New Brunswick Trails, and the Honorable Brian MacDonald, a member of the Legislative Assembly.

Rail Trail - Sep 1

On Friday, I crossed into New Brunswick, Canada! With just two Provinces ahead, 80% of the miles are now behind me. 

I've been making steady progress with no days off for five weeks, and I'll keep that going (if I can) to make up for the time lost to Lyme Disease. I'd like to shorten the time hiking in October. While I can handle all weather hiking, I certainly prefer good weather!

I stopped in at Visitor Info Center near the border and learned that the section of the TCT (Trans Canada Trail) from Woodstock to Millville has been completed, notwithstanding the TCT website. I'll reroute a bit and hike that rail trail, happy to shift 20 miles off of the roads. The path turns out to be an easy but viewless walk on what is primarily an ATV and snowmobile route, and the distance is rapidly dispatched.

Road-walking - Aug 29

The deciduous tree leaves are aging. The fresh green of early summer is gone. I've seen scattered red maple leaves, but not many. But neither are they still fresh green. I saw my first completely red leaved tree perhaps ten days ago, but that was a dying tree so is not an accurate indicator. Still, I can feel summer coming to a close. 

The IAT has left the woods. Road-walking has begun and will continue into Canada, which after these three days is now just a few miles away.

It feels good to be going to the border. The PCT and CDT both extend from border to border, so somehow the AT seems incomplete. Tomorrow morning, some 3250 miles from Key West, I'll rectify that shortcoming.

Start of IAT - Aug 26

A new beginning, a new trail. 

The IAT (International Appalachian Trail) begins outside of Baxter State Park, leaving an odd 12 mile gap between it and the AT terminus atop Mt Katadhin. Connecting them inside the Park is a combination of trails and road walk, ending with a somewhat faded trail at the east edge of Baxter State Park. 

My first twenty mile stretch of IAT is mostly old abandoned woods roads, and some trail with a couple of stream crossings. The trail portion is occasionally challenging to follow due to disuse, which is quite different from highly eroded, overused AT. I am likely to see few if any other hikers.

AT, PCT, CDT - Aug 25

Having hiked the three major US long trails, how do they compare?

Briefly, the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) remains my favorite. It is the wildest, with the most complete immersion into the outdoors and biggest test of outdoor skills. The Pacific Crest Trail is the most accessible, a great first trail. The Appalachian Trail (AT) is the most challenging physically, but the easiest logistically and has the best network of on and off trail support. 

More specifics follow.

Katahdin - Aug 24

I'm the first out of The Birches camp, at about 6:40 am, and after some logistics start the ascent with Fatty up the Hunt Trail at 7:20 am.

Eleven thru hikers will ascend today, finishing their epic journeys:  Spanky, Warbler, Crush, ET, Running Shoe, Pyrogie, Molly, Finder, Red Rocket, Fatty, and Steady (top row, center). Also ascending are Fatty's Uncle Dwight, Luke and Sam.

The official AT ends at Baxter Peak on Mount Katahdin, and most hikers just then retrace their steps down on the same trail. I'll be going over the mountain and down the other side as I continue on to Canada, and three others plan to join me down. Then we'll all shuttle into town to meet and celebrate.

The Stage is Set - Aug 23

It's all coming together. 

The weather forecast for Saturday is scrumptious.

A great group of hikers is coming up from behind, wonderful people I'd love to summit with. 

I'm lined up for a simple hike today, ready for a big push tomorrow. 

My body's healthy. My spirits are high. 

The group of hikers begin to assemble at the last restaurant before the park, and I join for lunch. 

The walk in is easy and gorgeous. 

The group sits around a final campfire exchanging stories and memories. 

The moon shines bright long after we are asleep. 

Tomorrow we climb Mount Katahdin, the pinnacle ending of the Appalachian Trail.

100 Mile Wilderness - Aug 22

I loved the Wilderness.  I lived the Wilderness. I climbed the mountains, drank from the springs, swam in the lakes, slept in the woods. I hiked most of it alone, and camped most nights alone. 

This was the perfect wrap-up for the Appalachian Trail for me. 

Today I exit the Wilderness, ready to enter Baxter State Park tomorrow. 

Life is good.

Wild - Aug 21

Ah, how I love the wilderness. 

I wake to an incredible red fireball casting an intense glow deep into the trees. The flat lake is a perfect mirror.

The loons are moved by the magnificent sunrise too. The first note of the call is peaceful and melodic, but the second and especially third seem to express a longing or loneliness. The three note calls hang on the water, to the be echoed back by another loon. They sing to the sunrise and to each other. 

Later in the morning an owl and I just sit and stare, eyes locked together, neither in an hurry to move on. I'm close enough to see him blinking. 

In the afternoon I slip into a warm lake and rinse off the trail grim. My refreshed clean skin lifts my spirits high as I hike onward. 

The loons remind me of an article I read on the flight of ducks. The question was how a whole flock of ducks can land at once without bumping into each other. Flying in close formation is one thing but landing in close formation is another; even the Blue Angels land one at a time. 

First the flock circles to approach either due south or due north. That migratory birds have a compass is well established, with magnetite either in their beak or near the pineal gland. The new information is that ducks also have tiny bits of magnetite on their retina. Their visual field superimposes these magnetic markers in much the same way as landing lights at an airstrip. Their head never moves to look down to the ground nor sideways to other birds, but is absolutely fixed level on the horizon throughout the approach and landing as they keep the magnetic markers lined up. Amazing stuff.

The wilderness eases my spirit into a great peacefulness. The simplicity sooths the soul and the complexity fascinates the intellect. Both produce awe. 

Live close to the land and the spirit is whole and good. 

19.5 miles to trailside in between Pollywog Stream and Rainbow Stream. 

Excitement Builds - Aug 20

You could feel it starting over a week ago.

"Can you see it from here?"

"Do you think it's that one?"

Stretching the eyes and imagination, that distant mountain might be Katahdin, the end of the Appalachian Trail.

"When do you plan to summit?"

"I don't know yet, maybe two weeks."

Another week passes. The excitement continues to build. The mountain now dominates the horizon, big and massive though still 50 trail miles way.

Frogs - Aug 19

I understand that frog populations have been declining for the past decade or two. You'd never know it in Maine. 

There are frogs everywhere, hopping along the trail, diving into ponds, scampering into the brush. Green ones, brown ones, orange ones, zillions of frogs. 

Would someone please let the scientists know that the frogs aren't dying off, they're just moving to Maine?

Underestimation - Aug 18

I figured 6 days for 100 Mike wilderness, so packed food for 4 days for the first 60 miles.  I want this to be my finale for the AT, taking time to enjoy the surroundings, swim, and breadth in the wilderness. 

Unfortunately I underestimated the rocks, roots and mud. My view is just of my feet and my pace too slow to allow much extra time to relax. 15 miles is a full day of just walking.

Entering 100 Mile Wilderness - Aug 17

I debate whether to do the 100 Mile Wilderness as a single stretch or with a resupply. I like idea of maximizing my last wilderness camping. But it may be 6 or 7 days of hiking so I opt to resupply at 60 miles.

The trail is much slower than I expected, full of rocks and roots. I also took some time lounging around to enjoy waterfalls and rivers with Bombardier, Bella, Bird, and Running Shoe. I'm a little behind, but that's okay.

Another day in paradise.

Germ Warfare - Aug 16

Another nonstop glorious day with easy miles. 

Now that I'm off of doxycycline the bacteria will recolonize my intestine. Rather than a smooth process, it is a chaotic contest where every germ fights for a toehold. My intestine is a battlefield for germ warfare.

Spirit suggested yogurt but I forgot. I'll try that the next time we met up. In the meantime I root for the good germs.

22 0 miles.

Highly Evolved Old Men - Aug 15

I spent the morning planning the next leg, from the end of the Appalachian Trail to Halifax since Spirit is off to Bangor, our last chance to print maps and guides.

Back on the trail, I am learning how highly evolved old men are. I quit trimming the hair sprouting out of my nose and ears and have much fewer problems with gnats! I rarely snort one anymore. My bushy look is one of high evolutionary development, to be proud of I'm sure.

Kennebec Ferry - Aug 14

Today is my first day with no doxycycline.  I don't have to fast for three hours in the afternoon. That has been a challenge as the blood sugar ran low, legs wobbled and my brain went fuzzy. Sometimes I tried hiking faster than the speed of thought and fell over. I also don't have to half sleep, watching the clock for my nighttime dose. Bye-bye doxycycline. 

Maine is chock full of wonderful lakes, ponds, and streams. It's perfect moose country, a great section of the trail, and another highlight.  Every since entering New Hampshire I've been just loving the natural beauty. Or is it ever since the doxycycline knocked out my Lyme disease?

Flagstaff Lake - Aug 13

I'm out early to beat the forecasted rain, which starts around noon and is light to moderate all day. 

I read about beach campsites on Flagstaff Lake. At the lake, the rain lets up and a calm reflection of the clouds and sun sets across the water.

Stratton - Aug 12

Today presented another good hiking day. Maybe it was a tad less tough and less spectacular than yesterday, but any day outdoors is a good day. 

I reached the rendezvous with Spirit at 3:30. I'm starting to be able to increase the miles. I considered hiking onward for more miles today, but instead take a nap.

We had dinner with some other hikers in Stratton. It gives Spirit a night off and is a chance to talk with other hikers, but the food Spirit prepares is always better than what we find in restaurants. I'm happily spoiled. 

14.5 miles to Hwy 27 near Stratton, ME

Inchworm - Aug 11

Inchworm, a 66 year old hiker from Tennessee, disappeared July 22. Despite two weeks of intense searching, including hundreds of volunteers, dogs, horses and helicopters, and culminating in a shoulder-to-shoulder grid search last weekend, there is absolutely no trace.

The area is rugged, though no more so than trail she had already traversed. She's a skilled backpacker. Everyone is mystified.

Easy - Aug 10

I averaged nearly two miles an hour today. I can't remember the last time I did that. Probably before New England and before Lyme Disease. I stopped early just because I need to resupply for the next three day (two?) section. 

The views continue to change.

Rain - Aug 9

Photo: the trail today

The forecast was 40% chance of thunderstorms last night and 60% chance of thunderstorms today.

It started raining yesterday in the early evening and poured all night. Black Brook was up 18 inches, flooding over the boulders I hopped across yesterday.  It was still raining hard at 7am this morning and finally stopped at 9am. 

We chat with some southbounders who hiked in last night. They report that the trail was a running creek and their descent down Old Blue Mountain was pretty dodgy. The last two hikers were going so carefully they finished an hour after dark. That's a tough day.

Flow - Aug 8

It's a great stay at The Cabin. 

Earl has completely remodeled and expanded the house. Inside and out is all beautiful wood and vaulted ceilings resembling a mountain lodge. The basement is a second living quarters with a ten bed bunkroom.

Earl "Bear" and Maggie "Honey" are well into retirement but work hard to help hikers.  She cooks dinner and he's up at 5am to make breakfast.  Previously hikers themselves, their concern and compassion for hikers is genuine.

The Cabin - Aug 7

It's so hard to predict the trail that I have packed three days of food for a 33 mile stretch. Once I cross the first couple of mountains the trail opens up nicely. I should be able to do more miles today, and southbound hikers are telling me the trail is nice for a little ways further. I'm thinking I can beat my plan. 

But as I cross East B Hill Road there are six southbound hikers at the road waiting for a shuttle to The Cabin and taking about how great the place is.

Perfect Day - Aug 6

What a wonderful day! 

The weather was picture perfect with patches of sun, and the views were amazing as I popped above and below the tree line. Both moraine lakes and beaver ponds dot the highlands. 

I'm increasingly enjoying the rock climbing. I wish I had more experience, but I am getting by. It's fun to climb, though still a bit dodgy descending. 

The Mahoosuc Notch is a famous boulder field described as either the most hard or most fun mile of the entire AT.  I vote for fun.

Entering Maine - Aug 5

Well, yesterday was a treat with a real easy trail. Today it's back to the good ole rocky AT.

I slept in late again, getting 12 hours of sleep. I hope I'm just catching up from poor sleep in the huts and not starting a Lyme Disease relapse. 

I had hoped to hike 12-15 miles but the late start and trail conspire against me. But I do cross a half mile into Maine!

Trident Col campsite - Aug 4

I take the morning to catch up on my blog. I like to stay within a few days and don't want to let memories of the Whites fade. 

Many hikers listen to music while they walk. I've never tried it on a long trail, and am not sure if I'd like it. It might be good for viewless AT sections where all I look at is my feet anyway. Spirit and I come up with an even better idea - audio books. She downloads an audio book player and sets me up to borrow audio books from our hometown library. That might be cool.

Goodbye Presidentials - Aug 3

I got very little sleep last night. The Hut crew was up late, and then a crew friend arrived during the night which got everyone up again, and then another hut crew did a raid in the wee hours. Lots of fun for the hut crew but pretty rough for this hiker that needs his sleep.

Half Day, Half Speed - Aug 2

I slept in late to rest and hiked only a half day, just 6.2 miles to Carter Notch Hut.

The first five miles were hands-on-rock climbing at one mph. It's kind of fun in a way but I'll be glad when it is over. Unfortunately I have no idea when that might be. The southbound hikers say all of Maine is rocky. Maybe New Brunswick?

Northern Presidentials - Aug 1

The weather is forecast to deteriorate later today. Having done our Work For Stay last night, Spoon and I get an early start up to Mt Washington. At the top we get the last glimpses of views as the clouds start to roll in. Splendid! 

Inside the lodge a sign lists 150 deaths on Mt Washington since 1849. The intent is not to be morbid, but to illustrate that the risks are real and hopefully prevent more deaths.  The recent average is two deaths per year, and that's just this one mountain. Only 20% are younger folks that you might think of as more likely to take risks or make mistakes. Most are seasoned folk my age. That's a wake up call. While half are winter tragedies, half occur in the summer. I can't deny that the profile fits. Falls and weather are the most serious risks.

Lake of the Clouds - July 31

Currently an AT thru hiker is missing a hundred miles north in Maine. An older woman, she has been missing since August 24. That situation is very troubling.

I took a late morning start into a stiff climb. It was not too bad, a bit strenuous but not hands-on-rocks climbing like Kinsman Mountain was.

What a glorious hiking day! Largely above treeline, there's great views all day. The sun often pokes through, and the clouds are constantly changing.

I wish I was less worried about the weather as I scan the clouds primarily to foretell the rain and wind, and miss some of their pure majesty.

Zeacliff Ridge - July 30

Today looks pretty moderate for the White Mountains.  There's just one climb up from the Hut and then a reasonable trail (by AT standards) all day long. I don't have to focus as intently on the trail and I chat with lots of hikers and hear their stories, especially one guy who just retired Army with five deployments in Iraq. Sadly, he is decidedly pessimistic about the future of both Iraq and Afghanistan.

Maybe I should have focused a bit more. I fell several times and banged up my shin. I have a welt an inch across that rises half inch high within 60 seconds. But I quickly get an Ace elastic bandage on it and an half hour later it doesn't hurt too bad. 

14.7 miles to Crawford Notch

Mt Lafayette - July 29

The White Mountains are tough. But the morning climb is okay, more like stair climbing than the rock climbing of yesterday. Spoon catches up with me and we hike together most of the day. 

Mt Lafayette is amazing, with a great expansive ridge-walk for several miles. It is very exposed so we keep watching the clouds as they swirl above and below. Some are very dark, not shaped like thunderheads but still threatening a heavy rain. The wind and temperature remain moderate so we judge that we are okay despite the exposure.

Blues in the Morning - Mt. Moosilauke, July 28

From Spirit's perspective...

I was feeling blue.  Steady had started hiking for the day.  Although we were meeting in the evening, I missed his company.  I was also thinking back to the hiking friends who had stood us up for dinner last night.  Another missed opportunity for good conversation.  And my ankle hurt so much when I got up this morning, I couldn't walk.  Another lonely day loomed ahead of me.

When Steady returned from his decent of Mt. Moosilauke last night, he spoke of the rugged beauty of the trail.  He spoke of creeks, waterfalls and boulders cascading down the steep mountain face. It's one of the most beautiful sections of the trail, he said.  He urged me to try the hike up the trail.  But we both knew it was dangerous for my weak ankle.  The blues today also came from thinking of all the sections of the trail that I would never share with him. 

While eating my breakfast I knew that the only way to shake these feelings were to get out on the trail.  I had done a few 2 hour out and back hikes from trailheads.  I'd even completed a four mile loop.  Each time I felt more whole, more refreshed. So I overcame my hesitation, laced up my hiking shoes, picked up my outriggers (hiking poles) and stepped out of the RV.  I decided to hike an hour and see how far that would take me.  

Within the first few hundred feet I got my shoes wet and muddy from a stream crossing.   Good, one less thing I have to worry about.  I'm already dirty. 

The trail progressed easily with only minor rocks and tree roots to remind me that I'm on the AT.  I was enjoying the fresh breeze and the soft green light filtering through the dense canopy of trees.  I felt nimble striding over streams and crossing rough wooden bridges. 

I met two day hikers coming down the trail towards me.  We discussed the warnings on the sign posted on the tree in front of us. "This trail is extremely tough.  If you lack experience please use another trail.  Take special care at the cascades to avoid tragic results."  The hikers confirmed the warning, saying that they would not like to make the descent during the anticipated afternoon rain. With their wishes for a safe hike, I walked on. 

The trail immediately got steeper.  My outriggers served me well in navigating the almost vertical rock stairs.  I had fleeting thoughts that I didn't earn the right to be here.  I hadn't done the 1800 miles to get here.  My legs weren't strong and my ankle might not hold me up.  But I put those doubts aside as I reached the first waterfall. 

Joy erupted as I sat on the smooth granite bank in the midst of the cascade. Breathing in the sound and the force of the water washed away the blues. Ahh, have I reached my destination for the day? Surely this is enough.  Naw, that familiar spirit to see what's around the next bend overtook me.  

I didn't think that the trail could get any steeper, but it did.  I was rewarded with ever more waterfalls, unseen until I scaled the next rock face.  When I reached a vertical face with three rebar loops to assist in the climb, I paused for a moment.  Shortening the length of my poles, I started the ascent. Carefully placing each foothold, I hoisted myself up until I reached a rocky ledge 20 feet above. 

With a limited view of the distant mountains through the treetops,  I sat next to the stream in peaceful contemplation.  I had walked an hour and was satisfied that I had truly reached my destination.  It was okay that the mountaintop and waterfalls above were out of my reach.  With gratitude that such natural beauty exists, I started my descent. 

I walked taller and with a surer foot on my return.  Taller, not because I had  conquered a steep trail or my doubts.  Taller, because I was infused with the spirit of the forest in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

Kinsman Mountain - July 28

There was very little hiking today. Only the last few miles were actual walking. The rest was all steep rock climbing, or skipping on rocks through mud. This was the toughest day of hiking so far. Much of it was hard work that yielded less than a mile an hour. 

Several times as I lunge up and forward I teeter momentarily. That's pretty scary as falling backwards could be a long fall into rocks. Not good.

Mt Moosilauke - July 27

We're definitely in the White Mountains now. The climb up to Mt Moosilauke is a steady relentless climb, but not difficult because it is good trail. Without tough footing, it is just like climbing the stairs to the top of a 400 story building with a pack on. Piece of cake. 

The top is alpine terrain, reaching above the tree line as Balsam firs and Red Spruce shrink to eight feet, then three feet, and then are gone, providing a wonderful open 360 degree view which is so rare on the AT.  I can see more rugged mountains to the north, challenges for the next week. 

It's a beautiful Saturday afternoon so the mountain top has perhaps 50 day hikers who came up an easier side trail. It's great to see so many people enjoying the outdoors.  

I summited at 2:15 and enjoyed lunch at the top and then accidentally added some bonus miles by dropping down 1000 feet on the wrong trail. I got to see the summit again at 4:00!

The descent (the correct one) was amazing as the trail plunges straight down next to cascades and waterfalls. The water is a nonstop series of jaw dropping spectacles.

This is easily the prettiest stretch of the AT yet.

13.9 miles to Kinsman Notch

The Whites are Coming - July 26

The hills keep getting bigger, with about 4,000 feet of climbing today. That's a prelude to the White Mountains - tomorrow I face that much gain just climbing Mt Mossilauke in the morning.

Croquet - July 25

A funny thing happened on the way to Smarts Mountain. A little sign along the trail said "Free Ice Cream and Croquet". I couldn't partake of the ice cream (conflict with doxycycline) but figured I'd check the place out.

Bill Ackerly's house is just a hundred feet off of the trail. He's an older guy full of positive energy that loves to chat with hikers, and play croquet.

Hanover NH - July 24

Ambitious day. One shelter is 17 miles up the trail (too few) but the next one is 24 (too many). In the sweet spot of 20'ish sits Norwich VT, so that's the target. 

The first five miles are tough up and down and I make just 1.8 mph. Uh oh. Then I hit lots of patches of muddy trail, also slow going.  But about seven miles in everything cleared up with good tread and moderate grade. I shifted gears and made up for lost time. Yep, my higher gears are back!

Woodstock - July 23

We woke to heavy rain, forecast to last all morning with warnings for high water throughout the day. 

I'd already heard that the next section can be muddy so I opted out of hiking into the rain.

Fresh Start - July 22

The hike begins again. I feel ready. Today will be a test.

It's a good stretch of trail with moderate up and down, and sections of good tread. I have a light pack again. A while back this would have been an easy day, but it will be bigger than I have done for quite a while. 

Baby Steps - July 21

The jailer opened the gate and the prisoner stayed put.

Probation - July 20

The jailer let me slack pack from RV to RV. I just carried the basic outdoor essentials and lunch, less than ten pounds. 

I'm seeing some hikers from prior weeks, since I've been stalled for a while. A while ago I met two hikers from Puerto Rico. We talked about water recreation, snorkeling, swimming, scuba diving, and kayaking. Puerto Rico sounds like paradise for water activities. I have a saying: any day outdoors is a good day; any day on the water is even better. We just added Puerto Rico to our future travel list. 

Spirit saw lots of familiar faces:

Pills - July 19

Part of the love of traveling and long hikes is the simplicity of life. Complications and structure fade away leaving just the basic elements of living. 

And then the pills showed up. 

"Take with food"

"Take 1 hour before or 2-3 hours after food"

"Do not take in combination with calcium including milk products"

"Do not lie down for 10 minutes"

Four pages of instructions.

Grounded - July 19

Spirit read my last blog, smiled deeply at the mantra I had repeated three times, and became emboldened. She whisked me away to an undisclosed location (Griffin Woods State Park) and let me know we were not moving any time soon. 

I hadn't listened to mama and I got myself grounded.

Doctor Visit - July 17

It's approaching two months since I started losing energy. Spirit has tried to get me to go see a doctor but it seems each time she convinces me the heat breaks and I feel better.  "It must be just the heat and humidity."

But this time she convinces me during a multi-day heat wave. Plus I had a burning fever with chills and aches last night. 

We find a walk-in clinic and head into town. The conclusion is quick: probably Lyme Disease.

Swimming hole - July 16

Another hiker mentioned a fabulous swimming hole coming up near the end of the day, the Clarendon Gorge. With the heat draining my energy that is just too good to pass up!

Alone again - July 15

I walked alone and slow all day. Two days ago I hiked with Backstreet and yesterday with him and Slacks. I enjoyed the company after so many miles alone. But after two days hiking faster than normal I was exhausted and sore, so I'm back to hiking alone.  

The trail was good and the climbs moderate but it still took nine hours to cover less than 17 miles. Dang I'm hiking slowly, even for me.

Glasses - July 14

I've always hiked with sunglasses on other trails. But the AT is a Green Tunnel so sunglasses are not needed. 

My regular glasses have progressive lenses, which means I'm looking down at the trail through reading glasses. To minimize distortion I wear the glasses way down my nose. Looking forward I just look over the top of the glasses.

Milestones - July 13

Today I'm two thirds done on this crazy trek. I've paddled and hiked 2,676 miles, with 1,323 miles to go. That still sounds like a long way, but the end of the Appalachian Trail is just 559 miles. 

More milestones are coming in rapid succession.

Good hiking - July 11

Today offers a straightforward walk up 2000 feet, bouncing along a ridge, then back down at the end of the day. While there are lots of ponds, swamps and muddy trail the mosquitoes aren't too bad.

It's great hiking weather. The cooler weather has really helped my physical and mental strength. I needed it. 

Tomorrow we'll go to the Tanglewood music festival with the Boston Symphony Orchestra. Spirit wanted to go when we passed it a few days ago, but didn't and has been regretting it ever since. 

18.4 miles to VT 9 near Woodford VT

Mt Greylock - July 10

There's a severe thunderstorm coming and I'm going up in elevation to the highest point in the state. I worry about lightening, but the storm is moving very slowly: 5 mph. I decide to go for it and reach the visitor center at the top just fine. Made of stone, it's a safe place to hang out.

At the top are five northbound (nobo) hikers and one southbound (sobo) at the top.  Spirit drove up there too. The sobo is from Eugene OR (GO DUCKS), near our home city of Portland.

It seems odd to call Portland home. I won't be there at all this calendar year and it isn't clear where we will reside when next we set anchor. 

14.7 miles to Williamstown

Thunderstorm for Lunch - July 9

It's an easy morning with cooler weather, decent trail, and the bugs held at bay with DEET and headnet.

I stop for lunch at the Dalton City Park, under a pavilion as a lightning storm passes through. 

In the old days I'd be watching the shape and speed of the clouds, trying to feel subtle changes in the wind speed or direction or temperature. Today I watch the real-time Doppler Radar on my smartphone.

The Berkshires - July 8

Last night was a nice cool night.  It got down to the low 70s. That would be too warm ordinarily, but was welcome now. I bag eleven hours of sleep. 

Nothing is dry in the morning. My hiking shorts and shirt are just as sweaty as when I took them off. My shoes are soaked from rain. But I do have clean dry socks.  

This area, The Berkshires, is a vacation land for Connecticut and Massachusetts with little villages and B&Bs catering to tourists. There are both recreation and cultural attractions. For example this is the summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra. 

Beautiful hiking lands me at Upper Goose Pond for lunch.

Pleasant Rain - July 7

This area has mosquitoes so I applied DEET at the road before entering the woods. It wasn't enough; I put more on 100 feet into woods. It doesn't last. I reapply more in 50 minutes. I don't like using that much DEET. I can tolerate moderate mosquitoes, say a few bites every ten minutes.  But this is more like another bite every second. I douse myself in DEET.

Skunks and Skitters - July 6

Despite my sour postings, this area really is pretty. Everything is green and lush with moss covered rocks and ferns and recently there have been more territorial views.

First thing in the morning I get treated to a tortoise in the trail. About 8 inches long, he is in no hurry as he moves along the trail. He eventually decided to let me pass and pulls his head in. I excuse myself, step over and move on down the trail.

Next up is a skunk.

Entering Massachusetts - July 5

I shifted tactics today. I took a full shoes-off break every three hours, and drank tons of water. I poured water over my head and shoulders. I immersed my feet in a cold stream mid-afternoon.

I still don't know if my lack of energy was mental or physical, or a mild illness, or what. But this morning I am on my way back to my (slow) normal self.

A Few Miles - July 4

Today I slept in again, but less so, and had a bit more energy on the trail. 14.0 miles to Falls Village is better than I've done the preceding four days.

Back to basics.  Maybe I'm just not drinking enough water. My body sweats but does not cool because of the humidity, so it sweats more.  With the heat maybe I need more water, a ridiculous amount of water. 

I drank more today, along with a slow pace to avoid getting so hot. I feel better. I pull out early not through exhaustion but to be conservative and slowly build miles back. I put the feet on ice to rest them. 

Will the energy come back? Will it come back enough to finish, even if it takes me longer?

A Break? - July 3

I sleep fourteen hours again. I'm exhausted. 

Maybe I just need a good break doing something different. Maybe I'm just done. Maybe there's something going on medically that is sapping my energy.

We talk about a break to go staff at BSA National Jamboree.

Worn Out - July 2

I'm worn out. Physically and mentally. 

I got up and then found myself back in bed. Twice. Fourteen hours of sleep. No energy. I finally hit the trail after 11 am.

Hot. Humid. Mosquitoes. Shirt stench. Sticky, drippy ooze of sweat and DEET. No fun.

Rocky up and down. Sluggish after just a few hours. Fell twice, once hard on my tail bone.

My mind is not in the game anymore. My mental and physical energy are drained. The few enjoyable stretches are separated by too many days.

July 2 11.5 miles to Hwy 341 Kent CT

Zero - July 1

The front pads of my feet are constantly sore. I've been meeting the RV at end of every day, putting the feet on an ice pack. But it seems to warm the ice pack more than cool the feet. Last night I tried immersing the feet in an ice bucket. That worked better, and then Spirit massaged them.

My feet still hurt in morning so I took zero day. By end of day the aching is much better, and I'm also getting the blisters under the calluses on the heal under control. My big toe still hurts, but overall better.

But I'm still just chronically tired. It's getting easy to take zeros. I can see my mental energy and motivation are slipping. 

July 1 zero

NY Frustration - June 30

Hawkeye is fed up with the trail in New York. He found himself cursing the rocks, the trail, and the sadists that built it. His spontaneous outburst surprised him. Then he found another hiker with the same experience of spontaneous foul outbursts and felt relief that it wasn't just him.  

Don's Brother blogs about several frustrating days of rock scrambles, invisible trail and tumbles. 

Spirit is very eager to be done with New York, where so many roads and state parks prohibit RVs, even our little 23 footer.

Frustration seems rampant in this section.

Competence and Conditions - June 29

On June 18, I blogged about Confidence and Optimism.

I don't want any readers to think confidence and optimism are all you need and then get into trouble with overconfidence and blind optimism. Given that worry I feel obligated to add a bit more.

There is another important safety aspect: Competence and Conditions.

NYC in the Distance - June 28

This section is deceptively challenging. Nominally flat elevation, it consists of numerous stretches of boulder hopping and small but steep climbs and descents. I'm on the trail from 6:45 am until 6:45 pm.

A tower at the top of the mountain promises a view of the NYC skyline, 34 miles away. I peer into the distance as ridge after ridge fades into soft blue-gray traces on the horizon. With the help of an interpretive photo display, patience, and maybe a little imagination, I pick out one little sliver of faint blue ridge that seems to have the sharp rectangular shapes of a skyline. 

New York has established a plethora of State Parks just west of the Hudson River.

Bears - June 26

Wednesday is a fun but hard day. As the trail enters New York, it scrambles along a rocky ridge for miles, much of it more like rock climbing than hiking. It's lots of fun, but I'm tired. (And yes, did you catch that we leave another state behind!)

The trail here is much closer to human population. I always hear a car, plane, lawnmower or some internal combustion engine. 

Nonetheless, I've seen bears three days in a row.

The Murray Place - June 25

Tuesday serves up the most challenging heat, humidity and mosquitoes yet. I'm dripping all day, and even with DEET the mosquitoes just pile one welt on top of another. 

Part way through the day we come across The Murphy Place, and I get to meet Jim Murphy. An '89 AT thru hiker, Jim bought a farm along the trail and built a cabin and shower for hikers to use as they go by. I take him up on some water.  There is something magical about long distance trails that brings out compassion and generosity and service to others. Amazing stuff.

Learning Lessons - June 24

Monday is a hard walk. My feet hurt, the trail is rocky and slow, the air hot and sticky. It's a perfect day for the swarms of mosquitoes, and the shelter last night was located in a mosquito bog. It's a good day to turn the mind to something else. 

A week ago I noticed that I can swat the gnats buzzing my face and hit them in mid-air. Some gnats learn that they almost got killed and fly away, leaving me alone. Other gnats learn that they don't get injured even if I hit them and fly right back in my face.

Humor lifts the day - June 23

Sunday is a fun, light day. As I ready to exit the RV to resume hiking, Don's Brother comes walking by with Speck. I'd walked with DB one day in the Shenandoahs and had hoped to pair up again. I pull on my pack and join them. The day is filled with light humor, an easy trail, and nice weather. The self-deprecating humor reminds me of a quote.

Trans Canada Trail planning

We were going to meet Daniel Alvarez today but that will get delayed a day. Instead I'll put some time into planning the Canadian segment of the trail. I know the general route but that's about it.

I'll follow the Trans Canada Trail from near the border crossing to Halifax. Or at least I'll follow it where it exists. The TCT is the longest proposed trail in the world. With about 15 years of development done, much of it is in place. But ,any other parts are still just lines on paper. 

I spend hours pouring over the trail route, adding each leg into a spreadsheet. It provides my first glimpse of the hike.

New Jersey

I am ready to be done with the rocks. My feet hurt. Supposedly they diminish about ten miles into New Jersey, so that's today's target. 

Pennsylvania has been a good state for wildlife. I've seen tons of frogs of all sorts sizes, bright orange newts, frogs, turkeys, squirrels, chipmunks, a couple of turtles, rabbits, snakes, porcupine, deer and a bear. My biggest surprise was a peacock.

I hike 8.1 miles to cross into New Jersey at Dunfield Trailhead. I've completed 7 of 14 AT states, 8 of the 17 for full trip from Key West to Halifax. About 2350 miles are done, with 1650 to go.

We plan to take a zero tomorrow to visit people, and I decided to stop early once I enter New Jersey. I'll have to do those last ten miles of rocks another day. 

Rocky Trail

Pennsylvania's Appalachian Trail is notorious for being rocky. Sure, the whole AT has rocks, and there's rocks in the Sierras on the PCT and in the Rocky Mountains of the CDT. But Pennsylvania rocks have shifted over the eons so they all point up. Wildcat jokes that the trail maintainers rotate all the pointy ends of the rocks upward and then sharpen them.
 

Morning finds me scrambling along the Knife Edge, which is slabs of granite pointing skyward. The scramble is fun and the views open, a rare treat.

Snakes

Three days ago, I encountered a big four foot black snake in the trail. 

I'm not aware of any big black venomous snakes, and assume it is a rat snake or something innocuous. But it has the wide triangular had of a viper so I give it a wide berth. 

Yesterday I saw another one.

Whining

My feet hurt. Even the triple zero did not eliminate the aching. Both big toes hurt on the outer edge. A sharp nerve pain rises from the base of the metatarsals on the left foot. The right little toe hurts constantly. Several toes remain numb. The pads of the forefeet feel like they went a couple of rounds with Mike Tyson.

I can hear my son: "Nobody is forcing you to hike. Either stop hiking or stop whining."

Okay, I'll stop whining. I just wish my feet would stop hurting. 

20.9 Miles to Blue Mountain Summit

Silence

Sometimes people ask me if a long hike is meditative. 

I've met one thru hiker who has kept his practice going on the trail, and another out for a weeklong meditation away from his city life. But it is rare. 

Someone recently posted this quote from Mother Teresa:

"The fruit of Silence is prayer.

The fruit of Prayer is faith. 

The fruit of Faith is love.

The fruit of Love is service. 

The fruit of service is peace."

Easy

It took a while to figure out. I'd hear rain dripping on the dry leaves as I walked past. But there was no rain.  I could even see the leaves move as the drops hit them. The rain traveled in a wave with me, never striking far away.

Eviscerating Creativity

The lady at the cell phone store tried to be helpful, but the Wi-Fi was very slow because it was on the same channel as a more powerful Wi-Fi router next door. She was prohibited from picking a different channel. She explained that everything is controlled by the head office. She was told could get fired if she moves a USB scanner from one PC to another. Even the radio volume is controlled centrally. She has adopted the strategy of letting problems fester and keeping her head down. 

The hiker used to enjoy his package delivery job.

Cicada

Derecho

I learned a new word today: derecho. It refers to a long narrow weather front with lots of rain and wind. On the radar, it showed up as a narrow red line running several hundred miles north-south and moving east. At 7:30am the weather was fine.  By 8:00am it was stormy, and by 9:00 am it was clear again. 

A second derecho was about six hours west, threatening a repeat from 2:00 pm to 3:00 pm.

Snorting Gnats: Duncannon PA

I have fallen into a pattern. I pack up with three days of food, and then end up at the RV that first night out. Typically it just turned out that the day ended at a State Park or town, so we might as well get together. I have some dinners I've carried a hundred miles now!

Wednesday day is no exception as I make better time that expected (27.6 miles) and meet Spirit north of Duncannon PA.

Along the way I discover a new challenge. The gnats are getting thick enough that I breath through my nose instead of mouth whenever possible. But three times today a gnat got sucked in. I could feel it trying to get out but invariably it crawled upward. I tried to blow my nose but it was too dry to free the critter. I'd have to wait until the bug triggered a release of moisture from the sinuses to blow it out. Judging from all the squirming, the gnat didn't like it any more than I did. After three gnats, I put on my headnet, even though it was too hot.

Hiking Again: Boiling Springs PA

After three days off of the trail, I'm ready to get back on. We drive back to Pen Mar county park and I again cross the Mason-Dixon line and enter Pennsylvania. I soon pass a Southbound hiker who reports seeing 30 northbound thru hikers in the past 24 hours. It may be that the front of the main wave of hikers is catching up. 

Town Chores

I woke up Thursday and just didn't feel like hiking. After sitting around in the RV a while I remembered a town chore I needed to do. My phone still just had the original SD storage card in it, so I spent the day getting a larger one, transferring my stuff over, and then downloading all of the test of the topo maps I'll need too get to Maine. Spirit was wanting a new phone so we did that too. 

On Friday I still just didn't feel like hiking. It became RV chore day, restringing a failed pleated curtain and washing bugs of the front of the rig.

Mason-Dixon

So many milestones:  2000 miles a few days ago, then 1000 miles on the AT itself, then the West Virginia and Maryland state borders.

I can see hikers responding to these artificial but still real milestones. "I just want to be done with Virginia", "I'll get to Harper's Ferry and then decide what's next", "I want to do the four state challenge".

I'm goal driven by nature. Very goal driven. It is such a prevalent strength that in excess it sometimes it becomes a weakness.

States, Memorials and Witches

After hiking over a month in Virginia, today I entered a new state, West Virginia!

Home of Harper's Ferry and the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, this stretch generates disproportionate importance to hikers. Many hikers use this as a dividing line between the north and south halves of the trail, and complete the hike in two years. Many others start here and hike south, then flip flop up to Maine and hike back to here. 

It is also the dividing line between the "Appalatchian" Trail to the south and the "Appalashun" Trail to the north.

Thunderstorms and Songs

National Hiking Day (June 1) falls on a Saturday this year.  I see lots of day hikers all weekend. In the final stretch of Virginia, there's a13.5 mile segment called the Rollercoaster, named for the closely packed descents and accents. This appears to be a favorite section for many local trail runners and day hikers. 

Whenever I hike there is a song blaring away in my brain. I guess it is triggered by the pounding rhythm of the feet. Some folks hike or exercise with music ear buds and that apparently helps maintain a tempo. For me the tempo picks the song. "Sheela Sheela That's my little Sheela..."

I have a bunch of minor cuts and welts on my legs from the grass yesterday. Skin is amazing; it will patch itself up just fine. I wish my gear could repair itself. I'm glad the weather allows me to just wear shorts and a t-shirt so that most often the scrapes are on my arms and legs so do not require repairs. "Gloria G L O R I A Gloria..." 

Today is hot and muggy so I'm looking forward to the forecasted thunderstorm.

Halfway

I crossed 2000 miles today. Spirit had spelled out 2000 in twigs arranged on the trail, so I let out a whoop as I crossed over it.

Halfway. Halfway between what? Sure, halfway from Key West to Halifax. But that is just the topography. I'm halfway from the person I was when I started to whomever I will be when I finish.

That's a change I welcome.

Elite or Ordinary?

Today I meet Buttercup and Trilium, a couple of marathon athletes backpacking the length of Shenandoah Park. They were thoroughly in awe of thru hikers, which was ironic because they out hiked all of us. 

I've heard the occasional thru hiker expecting favoritism from hotels or other businesses, such as hiker rates, free shuttles, extra hours or other favors. I've even heard, with some sense of entitlement, "But we're thru hikers, so they should. ..."

At each of the shelters there is a spiral notepad for hikers to record their progress and thoughts. An entry at Rock Spring Hut reads "You thru hikers think you are so special. You're not. You're just ordinary people."

 

I agree with the author in the log book.

Blessings in Disguise

Recently cut grass triggered itchy eyes and throat, sneezing and a runny nose.

I had hay fever as a child. Many summer afternoons were spent on the couch waiting for an allergy attack to pass. My eyes and throat were the main targets. The eyes would get insanely dry and itchy but if I rubbed or even touched them they puffed up into red dry balls. Touching them only made it worse. My throat was parched and the roof of the mouth and sinuses itched fiercely. If I lifted my tough to the back of my mouth to sooth, it set off a sneezing storm. I had to just lay there, motionless and breath. I'd fantasize about driving a fork into my sinuses to stop the itching. 

My Mom had the worst part, staring into my puffy eyes and hearing me wheeze, helpless to relieve her child's suffering. 

As I reflect back now I am grateful for the childhood allergies.

Shenandoah

Shenandoah is a full National Park with all the usual backcountry and frontcountry features. But it is a linear park, a hundred miles long and pencil thin. The frontcountry follows the Skyline Drive, while the backcountry follows the Appalachian Trail often only a hundred yards away. It is easy to switch between the two, so visitors can get a sample of the backcountry. 

The front country has full service campground with Ranger talks, camp stores and cafes. That means hikers can get food!

Entering Shenandoah National Park

Beyond Waynesboro, the Appalachian Trail traverses over 100 miles in Shenandoah National Park. I'm entering on Monday of Memorial Day weekend, hopefully as the crowds are headed out.

Town Food: Waynesboro

I think I've put 5-8 pounds back on, even adding a few more pounds after I halted Operation Fatten the Turkey. 

Ming's Chinese Buffet here in Waynesboro is rather famous among hikers and I've been hearing about it for hundreds of miles. It helped power us through the easy 14.5 miles to town in just 5.5 hours. Six dinner plates and nine desserts later I have to agree it is the best buffet I've been to.

Pleasant Days

On Monday the 20th the warm humid weather is here.  Maybe to stay?  Maybe for just a few days? 

I'm seeing more familiar faces now. More people are doing rougphly the same 18-20 miles per day so I see them more than just once. There are still a few faster hikers who fly by doing massive daily miles in Virginia, and also some who started a month before me and are going slower to fully enjoy the trail. But it's nice to see familiar faces.  I've been hiking with Shaman since Daleville.

Back on the Trail Again

I broke out of town! I was ready again at 8:30 but it took until 10 am to get the group on the trail. The miles came easy anyway, 18.5 for the day.

The weather was much like a lush Oregon coastal fog, with the gentle dripping of leaves all day and more rhododendrons in bloom. 

Incremental Zero

Plan: 18 miles

Weather Forecast:  increasing chance of rain through the day to 90% by 3 pm.

Actual:  Packed up and ready at 8:30, checked in on some other hikers and hung around to chat. They are zeroing due to the weather forecast. I join them for lunch, then hang around some more. Ultimately I took an incremental zero. 

The weather turned out perfect for hiking, neither hot or cold, no rain, no wind. Finally at 5pm there was a brief sprinkle, but not much.

I enjoyed the time with other hikers and pigging out at restaurants, but in retrospect would have preferred to hike. 

Sounds: Daleville

Last night the National Weather Service issued a localized storm advisory for dime-sized hail and 40 mph wind from 9 pm to midnight. I checked the radar and it was 15 miles to the west, headed east. I opted for camping inside a shelter for just the fifth time. But nothing showed up except some wind in the tree tops. I guess it went southeast and just missed us.

As the first morning light glimmers, intense bird song erupts. There have been birds every day but this is far greater than I've heard before, even in tropical jungles. As the sun rises different species join in or fade away. For about 90 minutes all sorts of beautiful song and noisy raucous are mixed into a cacophony.

Enjoying the hike: John's Spring Shelter

What a glorious day!

First, I've relaxed the pressure for more miles. I stopped longer at viewpoints, or to chat with other hikers. I enjoyed the day and ignored the miles, hiking it like I'm just doing the AT and in no hurry. 

I also started taking breaks. On the other long walks my style has been to just keep a slow pace going all day without much stopping. Since the AT is more physically demanding I'm going to experiment with breaks and see if the body likes that better. 

But the real reason today was glorious was about the trail not me.

Balance: Trout Creek

I've been reworking my projected finish dates and it looks like I'm doing well to get to Halifax in mid-late October.

My current miles per hiking day is 19.3. Including zero days it is 17.4. Just extrapolating this pace I'd reach Halifax on Sep 21, about a month early. 

But I won't sustain that pace.

Miles on the social trail

I passed a milestone this morning.   I have now hiked 1000 miles. We're in triple digits!  1700 miles including the kayaking. 2300 more to go. 

There was another milestone yesterday. For the first day in what seems like months my feet were not wet and cold. Yeah!  The trail is drying out. Rain is forecast in a couple of days but I'm going to ignore that for now.

Dickenson Gap

Now that I'm in Virginia the miles will come fast. I fantasize about just blasting through the state.

Except that I get up in the RV and then find myself crawling back into the warm bed. Twice. Then we go out for a big breakfast. It's afternoon by the time I hit the trail. 

Retirement? Pearisburg VA

We're not in the bigger mountains anymore. Now the mountains run in long ridges for many miles, and the trail follows along the crest, coming down for water or to cross over to a different ridge. The trail is much faster - one hiker covered 16 miles in just four hours and another pair made 33 miles yesterday. 

This section is timed perfectly. The spring green leaves and grass couldn't be brighter. Fran and I both talk about what a wonderful place this would be to retire to. Wildcat and Rest Step may have it right, living near these beautiful mountains. I wonder if this is like Oregon - many visitors in July through September think they have found the promised land until they move to Oregon and endure the nine months of gray. But we fantasize anyway about living in these hills. 

Yesterday I walked rather deliberately, paying attention to my form to see if I could hike faster and with less effort.

A Break in the Weather

The weather is improving! Well, we have a forecast of one good day before it rains again. That's something!

Easy trail, good tread, nice weather. 

The trail has now dropped from the high elevations in the south and bounces around 3000 and 4000 feet so we are fully in Spring. The forest is largely maple and the hills are that fresh bright green of new leaves.

Zero

A zero day means no miles. 

This zero day was no miles, no motivation, no energy, no nothing. 

After a big breakfast I just went back to bed. I didn't really decide to not hike, I just looked at the rain, albeit lighter than normal, and didn't hike. I slept, ate, and was lazy. No motivation for more miles. Just stayed in the RV, where it is warm and dry. 

What does this mean for completing the hike? I don't know. Today I don't care. I'm not walking today. Pull up the covers and go back to sleep. Today I'm not hiking. 

My Sweetie is Back! Atkins VA

I'm in a hurry to get to Canada before winter, but with Spirit just back I am not wanting to start in on a multi-day section today. Instead we spend most of the day together and I just hike a short 11.5 mile piece to the next road crossing and we get back together again.

There are zillions of hikers. Over the past week it seems the number just keeps climbing. I see dozens today but do not recognize any of them.

Ferocious Storm: Marion VA

The storm came through ferociously. The shelter I'm in is aptly named: Hurricane Mountain Shelter. 

As I hear branches crashing in the dark I am trying to remember if this shelter is made of sturdy logs or just boards. Food bags blow down. A hammock strung under the shelter eave gets blown like a wind tunnel, and the occupant repeatedly adjusts the tarp cover until eventually abandoning it and coming inside. 

This would be a very tough night for tenters. If a tent blows over then the sleeping bag would be wet instantly. No safety net. I've experienced that once and only had time to wrap the collapsed tent around the bag on jump in and hope enough of the bag stayed dry enough to keep warm.

Go or No Go? Hurricane Shelter

The National Weather Service issued a High Wind Advisory for sustained winds of 28-34 mph and gusts to 50. That's just one step below gale force wind. They forecast heavy rains the next day, then two days of thunderstorms.

We talk it over at breakfast and are ambivalent. We really don't want to take four zeroes. A couple of us need to get to Maine by mid-August, and another has the look of a caged animal in her eyes at the thought of being stuck here. I pull out topo maps to see how exposed the trail is. Today perhaps only 25% of the trail is protected in the trees, and perhaps a third is exactly on the ridge.  We'll definitely get blown. 

Bailed Off: Elk Garden

Today was old and extremely windy. All of us off were getting literally blown off of the trail and had to lean and push hard with poles and legs to get back on it. Two bald areas near Whitetop Mountain were particularly tough.

14.2 miles into the day, around 3pm, I found eight hikers at the Elk Garden roadside parking lot, all huddled in one roadside privy. They had decided to bail and had called a shuttle. Apparently another group before them had also bailed and left in a shuttle not too long before. 

The wind was biting cold, but manageable. I was going to push on.

Shrinking: Saunders Shelter

I weigh only 145 pounds. Yikes, I'm eating like a horse and still losing weight. At this rate I'll be 105 in Maine and 85 in Halifax.

EAT MORE! 

On the way back to the trail we stop at the grocery store for Ben & Jerry's and Sun Chips. I wolf down 1500 extra calories between breakfast and lunch. 

I'm beginning to recognize the physical challenge of this trail.

Tennessee Turnpike

The miles today are easy. With minor ascents and descents, great tread and trail, and an empty pack the miles fly by fast and furious. 

I planned 20 miles, and hoped for 22. But  I just kept going all 28.8 to Damascus and cross over 1500 total so far. 

I'm 35% of the way to Halifax. Get ready Lucy, I'm almost there!  Only 2500 miles to go. 

That also makes me a landlubber again since that's 800 miles by land and 700 by sea. I find that disappointing - the kayaking portion feels like much more than just a little portion of the whole trip. 

As I stepped off of the trail I was met by Rest Step for a homestay. Before long I was in a plush robe eating meal after meal while laundry was running and batteries were recharging. I enjoyed great conversation with this Triple Crowner and his wife until midnight, took a hot shower and climbed into a bed. Bliss. 

Spring is Happening

It's May Day.

The highest mountains are still gray and sullen, but most are coming alive. Distant hills have several shades of greens and reds with the diversity of hardwoods. Some maples have the red tinge of new leaves opening, others have the bright yellow green maple flowers. Even the oaks are waking up with the tiniest specs of green at the top of the canopy. And of course there are wildflowers everywhere. In one patch there are three different blue blossoms. 

Today looked to start with a tough climb and then easy cruising, but turned out to be the opposite.

Big miles? Laurel Fork River

I'm ready for a strong hiking day. I wrapped a sore ankle and got an early start. The trail footing is good. By 11am ten miles are gone!

I stopped at a nice rocky viewpoint for lunch, drained the blood blister under the toenail, and posted blog entries from the last three days (I could see the cell tower in the valley below!).

It's a good hiking day. The weather is dry and calm, not cold and not hot. The pack weight is getting manageable as the days pass and the food bags shrink. With water sources every few miles at most, there is little need to carry much. It feels good to see a big mile day coming since miles have been tough lately. The ankle pain is increasing and the legs are tired, but we're on a roll. 

Mostly Sunny: Mountaineer Shelter

The weather report forecast more rain today so I spent much of the night chilled trying to get my gear dry, using the only source of heat I have: me. In the morning, I needed to stay in the sleeping bag a little later than normal to get the moisture out of it. 

It turns out that the sun broke through off and on all day and there was no rain. 

I am a bit behind the next planned meetup with Spirit and the late start didn't help.

Wet and Cold: Overmountain Shelter

What a yucky day. No fun at all. The showers and rain poured all day, amid cold wind. In several places the trail was a fast creek for a mile at a time so the feet were soaked. 

More seriously, my rain gear failed. I quickly noticed the rain coat leaking so pulled off my warm shirts to keep them from getting any wetter. 

I walked wet all day and was too cold to stop unless I pitched the tent or found a shelter. I ate all of the day's snacks in morning, deferring lunch to Roan High Knob Shelter. But at 6194 feet, it was too cold to stop - there were even two little snow patches. I pushed on without lunch, but all my heat was from my internal furnace and I needed to give it fuel.

Play Misty for Me

Today had some spectacular views. I could tell because there isn't much other reason to hike up exposed grassy knobs.  My view was just gray, and the wind blew cold. Mild showers came and went all day, but I stayed dry enough.

With the cold wind and forecasted rain tonight, I found a very protected place to tent. On the leeward side of the ridge was an old abandoned roadcut, providing a flat spot out of the direct wind. 

Not a very fun day, but 21.9 more miles are done. 

Erwin TN, stay at Uncle Johnny's

Pretty day. Great sunrise, up early. 

Hiked 22 miles in 10 hours of actual hiking, some of it with a good pace and some up hills at a crawl. It's a pretty good trail here with only limited footing challenges. Off and on I hiked with several different folks. 

Arriving at Uncle Johnny's in Erwin TN, the first order of business is a hot shower, then a mail drop and pizza. 

Meadow north of Sams Gap

Early start, late finish and slow pace. 18.7 miles; better but not great. I just can't get the pace back up again. 

I took a two hour lunch to drain the blood blister under and around big toe nail and let dry in sun, so that slowed me down. I'm being very careful to avoid an infection. 

Today I met two hikers who started the same day I did!  Most of the hikers in this stretch started about two weeks earlier.  The big wave that started April 1 is about a week behind. It appears there is another wave of earlier starts perhaps a week ahead. I'm in a quiet lull in between. Nice. 

Jerry Cabin Shelter

The forecast is thunderstorms later in day. I had low energy all day, moving slowly. I stopped at the first rain, skipped three hours of hiking and covered just 13.6 miles.

The highlight was a cool exposed knife ridge of granite slabs, called Big Firescald Knob. Another hiker commented "Now that's what I've been waiting for".  It's a scramble up massive granite slabs and steps with a great view.  I was glad I finished it before the rain started.

Deep Gap

Some stayed in Hot Springs 2 days, some 3, one was not sure but guessed it was 5. Everyone stayed longer than expected because it is a great trail town. There isn't much to the town except the outfitter, restaurants, hostels, laundry, clinic and grocery stores.  Everything is perfect for thru hikers and close together. 

Healing? Hot Springs

After 13 hours of sleep my leg should be good to go, you think?

The morning starts with a simple walk up Max Patch, a high treeless knob with amazing views. A half dozen brave souls tented on the top last night and got to see the sunset. They also felt the full wrath of the cold wind and are all still in their tents. 

By early afternoon the leg hurts again. A repeat of yesterday? I don't want the injury to get worse so I rest and elevate again. This time it helps. The pain and swelling has shifted from the shin to the ankle so I alter the bandaging. It is sore but doesn't seem to bad. I arrive in Hot Springs at dusk, 20 miles. 

Will I be fully healed tomorrow? 

Elusive miles: Max Patch Road

The hike to Hot Springs was supposed to be easy. Just 33 miles; I'll be there in a day and a half. Then yesterday's half day was just one mile.

There is an annual hiker festival in Hot Springs today and tomorrow. Maybe I can still get there early tomorrow?

The injured shin looks and feels great. The body is amazing.

But after a few hours it starts to hurt and I begin to limp. Then hobble. I stop for an hour to rest and elevate the leg. It doesn't help so I look for the first flat spot and water. At 4 pm I am done for the day, with just 13 miles. By 6 pm I'm in bed. 

I tried all afternoon to text Spirit that I'll be late but cannot get a strong enough signal. 

It looks to be a cold night.

Falling: Green Corner Road

I took a late start, letting the body rest from yesterday. The rain didn't encourage me to get out either.

Eventually I set off.  Only 1.0 mile up the trail I slipped on a wet rock while crossing a creek and crashed on my shin. Ouch. I got the poles anchored and stood back up. The right shin hurt like heck but didn't change when I put weight on it so nothing seemed broken or chipped, and I hobbled across the creek. There was already a set of knots raised a half inch along four inches of shin. Oops. As I debated whether my day was over a few other hikers reached the stream and just gazelled the 4.5 feet from bank to bank without even touching the wet rocks. A much better idea!

Since I had just left Spirit and the stream was next to Green Corner Road, I decided to bail. Within minutes I had my leg elevated with a compression ice wrap. By evening the swelling was already coming down.

Rack up one mile for today. For the first time my daily average miles is now under 20 miles, at 249.6 miles in 13 hiking days.

A Magnificent Mistake: Pigeon River

Oops. When we hurriedly extended the resupply from Newfound Gap another two days to Davenport Gap to allow for an RV repair, I didn't get all of the AWOL guide book pages. 

I like to know a couple of landmarks ahead, such as streams or trail junctions, so that I can follow along with my watch to make sure everything lines up right. The technique is called dead reckoning and is my main tool in staying found. I am not yet fully in the habit of just watching for the white blazes to confirm the route. Without the final page, I was not able to track the trail features and I guess I got sloppy. I ended up going down the Snake Den Ridge trail 5 miles, dropping from 6000 feet to 2800. 

This turned out to be the highlight of the Smokey Mountains.

Smokies: Pecks Corner Shelter

The trail entered fir and spruce this morning as we got higher and the mountain is more moist.  The forest floor changes from soft leaves and rich brown soil to acid needles. Much darker than the bare trees below, moss grows on rocks and fallen trees. 

Very recent trail maintenance cleared the winter branches and fallen trees off of the trail.  I think to myself that the crew couldn't be more than a week ahead so earlier hikers had to crawl over and under the deadfall.  Sure enough, it is not yet cut past Newfound Gap and I am soon scampering through myself. 

A heavy misty fog clouds the views all morning including Clingmans Dome, the fabled highest point in the Appalachian Trail. Regardless everyone is upbeat. They now have their trail legs.  I am no longer the first on trail in the morning, nor the fastest, nor the last off, but I get 21.2 miles today.

Slow Miles: Double Spring Gap Shelter

Is it just me or is it the trail? I can't break 2.0 mph all day. The trail is steep and the footing is rocky. I'm sure it must just be a slow stretch of trail. I work hard for 19.2 miles and again tent near a shelter. 

Oaks give way to birch up higher,  with more colorful leaves that only dropped recently.  The trail bed is fluffy with fresh leaves. 

Entering the Smokies: Mollies Ridge Shelter

Welcome back to the trail. Not feeling any hurry, I take my time looking around Fontana Dam and chatting with people and finally enter Great Smokey Mountain National Park around 2:30 pm. The climb upwards is slow but I get treated to areas of amazing floral carpet. Just inches high, scads of tiny white flowers with pink veins cover the ground under the oak trees. 

In the park hikers must stay in or next to a shelter, so I pull into Mollies Ridge Shelter and pitch my tent. This is the first time I have camped at a shelter, but I arrive late and the ongoing conversations are within well-formed groups so I head to bed. 

Buddies and gear

Had a wonderful day off-trail visiting Wildcat, a hiking buddy and great human being. You meet amazing people on the trail, and Wildcat is one of the best.

We tuned up the gear, including waterproofing a rain coat, cleaning and repairing hiking poles, repairing worn pack fabric and replacing a belt buckle. I used the same gear on the Pacific Crest Trail and Continental Divide Trail, and now the Appalachian Trail. 

Somehow it is satisfying for the same setup to make it through the full Triple Crown. Maybe I'm just cheap, or like the familiarity, but I think the satisfaction relates more to seeing ultra light gear last that many miles. Ironically most retail gear is much more rugged (and heavy) but is used only a few times a year. Kudos to companies like ULA, Western Mountaineering and TarpTent that find that sweet spot with ultra light durability.

Buddies are like gear. Select for high quality, give care when needed, and you have a durable friendship.

Big Miles: Fontana

With 150 miles behind them everyone is getting their hiking legs.  Many hikers now match my pace, so I get more frequent conversations while hiking. I'd been hiking alone so far, so some company is nice. Their daily miles are growing as they also are starting on the trail earlier each day. Perhaps soon I'll be seeing familiar faces for multiple days or weeks instead of just passing them once.

Tomorrow I'll visit Wildcat, a hiking buddy from the Continental Divide Trail. I'm really looking forward to it. A few days ago I hoped I'd reach Fontana late Saturday so I could take a full zero on Sunday, but abbreviated miles on Thursday in anticipation of the thunderstorm leaves 47.3 miles, just too many miles for the remaining two days. Or is two 24s just barely possible?  

Then on Friday slow muddy trails and an afternoon break to dry gear leaves 27.3 miles to Fontana today. Too many miles. Way too many. Almost certainly. Almost. 

The miles out of NOC are not easy. The trail climbs 2961 feet in 5.8 miles (10%), then grants a short breather before climbing Cheoah Bald, another 662 feet in 1.2 miles.  I still can't quite give up on reaching Fontana today, but after lunch I still have 19.4 miles to go!  These are the biggest hill climbs yet. Big miles too? Crazy! I do the math and estimate an arrival time of 10-11pm. I decide to push and see how it develops. 

At Stecoah Gap a previous hiker is celebrating his birthday by providing a huge feast for thru hikers. The good food and comradery is too much to pass up. Time ticks away while I eat and chat. I leave at 4 pm with 13.9 miles to go. No way to reach Fontana now. But there are only a couple more climbs and then maybe I can kick a super fast pace the rest of the way? 

I maintain 2 mph climbing Jacob's ladder, ascending 618 feet in just 0.6 miles. I feel good. I change my socks and bandage a sore shin. I getting ready for a long night. At 5 pm 11.5 miles remain. And I think I can somehow add that to the 16 miles I've already done today? 

I want to use all of the daylight I can. I am flying at 3 mph. Then lousy footing and rubble conspire to slow me to a crawl. 

Dark sets in and I have 4 miles to go. Should I make camp? It takes an hour to cook, eat, pitch the tent and hang the bear bag. In only two hours I could be in Fontana. There is no moon. I am very dependent on my flashlight but I have backup. I keep going. 

The trail is generally easy to follow in the dark. I think to myself that navigating the Appalachian Trail at night is about as hard as navigating the Continental Divide Trail during the day. Then I encounter rocky outcroppings and have to search hard for the trail. Time ticks on. 

The miles count down. A trail crossing at 2.6. A foot bridge at 2.0. The final stretch of switchbacks descending to the highway take forever. 

At 10 pm I arrive in Fontana. But Spirit is not at the highway crossing. With no cell phone signal I have to assume she is at the dam. Another 1.4 miles. My feet hurt but I take off again. A few tenths of a mile before the dam we meet up when the trail parallels the road and she is driving by looking for me. 

It's over. I'm here. 28.4 miles. Whew. Long day. Tomorrow I get a full zero with Wildcat. 

When I come back to the trail on Monday I should see familiar faces to hike with. And no more crazy 28 mile days. Promise. 

Lightning: Nantahala

First forecast for days ago, the upcoming storm had been an active topic of conversation on the trail for many days giving people time to make plans. Many who had endured the bitter ice storm on April 3-4 choose to head to trail towns. Hotels and hostels were full. But many chose to stay in the mountains, especially when the forecast on Thursday didn't seem so bad. Accuweather predicted just two short periods of rain during the night, totaling 0.12 inches, with occasional thunderstorms. Accuweather was wrong. 

The storm delivered its full fury. Fortunately it was not cold, but the wind and rain were intense.

Lightning flared in the clouds every few seconds for several hours. Wind howled so loud I couldn't distinguish it from thunder. The rain on the tent wasn't the familiar sound of rain drops but instead the constant roar of a hose. 

I've been too close to lightning on hikes before, watching it ricochet off rock walls and smelling the ozone while crouched in the safety position. I had no interest in climbing high tonight. I camped low, in a protected area. 

Just after dark a hiker passed, headed to the next shelter, 4.5 miles and two balds away. I tried to convince him to stop since in this weather and dark it could take an hour per mile, a very long time to be exposed. 

Fortunately the lightning was all in high altitude clouds. There were no land strikes. But with the howling wind and pouring rain I was happy to be in my tent. 

I have just a TarpTent, a single silnylon tarp. Both the head and feet are open except for mosquito net, and the sides are a few inches of the ground. There is no floor.  In a heavy rain water splashes in from all sides and I retreat to the center. With wind the rain blows through the net. 

A little beak is Velcroed to the top front of the tent to reduce some of the wind blown rain. Last night the wind was too strong for the Velcro and the beak flapped in the wind. Rain drove through the net door, soaking the head of my down sleeping bag. 

In the morning I found the hiker who had gone on. He safely reached the shelter at 12:30 am after a harrowing night, and vowed not to try that again. On the other hand sometimes the worst days are also the best days and he also really enjoyed the challenge. 

With a late start, waiting for the rain to stop, and a break mid-afternoon to dry gear in the sun, I made 21.3 miles today.