A Magnificent Mistake: Pigeon River

Oops. When we hurriedly extended the resupply from Newfound Gap another two days to Davenport Gap to allow for an RV repair, I didn't get all of the AWOL guide book pages. 

I like to know a couple of landmarks ahead, such as streams or trail junctions, so that I can follow along with my watch to make sure everything lines up right. The technique is called dead reckoning and is my main tool in staying found. I am not yet fully in the habit of just watching for the white blazes to confirm the route. Without the final page, I was not able to track the trail features and I guess I got sloppy. I ended up going down the Snake Den Ridge trail 5 miles, dropping from 6000 feet to 2800. 

This turned out to be the highlight of the Smokey Mountains.
I followed Snake Den Ridge down to Rocky Creek near Cosby Campground, descending into much greater diversity than I had seen so far.  There were at least six different deciduous tree leaves, compared to just one or two primary species elsewhere. Trillium and violets were in bloom, delphiniums had fresh lush green growth, and everywhere were lots of little carpet flowers. Occasional dogwoods in bloom added to the treat.  New leaves were unfurling on vine maple and blackberry. The noisy creek cascading down rocks provided the moisture for moss, moss and more moss. Lichens grew out of the moss and ferns grew on rotting logs and even on rocky outcroppings. 

Eventually it was time to get back out of the Cosby Creek and onto the Appalachian Trail. Unfortunately that was 3200 feet above me and five miles back. I had made only about eight miles on the AT before my wrong turn, and it was already 2:30 pm. The plan was to hike 20 miles on the AT and meet Spirit at Davenport Gap. I needed to make some serious time. I pushed hard re-climbing the Snake Den Ridge Trail, timing myself to maintain 2.5 mph while climbing a 12% grade. I maintained it for the first 30 minutes, then 60. It was getting tough at 90 minutes and by the time I reached the top I was pretty wobbly. Now, at 4:30 pm, I was back on track, but had 12 miles to go. To finish would mean a 30 mile day.

I ate my spare lunch and set off. But the AT footing is pretty bad in places due to erosion. In too many places in the Park the trail is just a ditch full of roots and rocks, and it is hard to keep a serious pace. Ironically I could make just 2 mph on the AT, even without the steep climb, since the trail is in such worse shape than the Snake Den Ridge Trail. I guess the Trail is getting loved to death. Unfortunately many places are beyond repair and need to be reconstructed. 

At 6 pm I passed the first potential bail out spot, the Cosby Shelter. I kept going and texted Spirit that I'd either be very late or more likely arrive in the morning.

Just as the daylight started to fade, I saw my first bear. He was perhaps a hundred yards down the trail, standing straight up. I paused to make sure he noticed me. Within a few seconds he dropped onto all fours and scampered down the trail. He went the same way I was going so for the next ten minutes as I approached a curve I'd first call out "Hey bear" to make sure I didn't surprise him at short range.

The Davenport Gap shelter was the last bail out spot. The National Park does not allow camping anywhere except near the shelters, so I couldn't just hike until I got tired and then pitch the tent. If I passed up a shelter it was a commitment to make it to the next one a few hours away. 

Spirit texted back that parking at Davenport Gap was poor so she was at the Pigeon River. Yikes, that adds another 1.7 miles. Today is shaping up to be a 31.7 mile day. The night is dry and reasonably warm with a little bit of moonlight. I am getting very tired and running on pure will, plus eating all of the spare snacks and pounding down the water. I need to give the body every chance I can. 

I reach the last shelter at 9 pm. I can stop or keep going and reach Fran at about 10:45pm. The smart choice is the shelter. I am tired and have already done 29 miles today. But my stubornheadedness prevails and I push on. 

At Davenport Gap the trail empties onto the road but I cannot find where it starts on the other side. Searching in the dark, I find some steps up the roadcut a little south on the road, and climb them to find the familiar white blaze. The last 1.7 miles is now outside of the Park, so if I need to bail out and tent I can.

An unexpected climb is a test of will, and I trudge up. The trail then descends down to a stream and I boulder hop across in the dark.  I start thinking through scenarios - if I slip and get hurt then I'll just pitch there. I can handle twists, sprains, lacerations and such. Hypothermia is not a concern unless I get wet, and then I can get in my sleeping bag. 

The legs really hurt, with the shins aching so much I walk flat footed, and the pads of the feet get beat to a pulp. I wrap the shin to limit more inflammation, and take a Naproxen for the feet. The stream crossings increase in frequency, so I take each one carefully. 

I can tell I am getting close since I hear cars on the highway. There isn't much energy left to go any farther than I need. Finally at 10:45 pm I open the door to the RV and collapse.