Cairo, Georgia

The beauty of traveling at a walking pace down Georgia country roads is that you get plenty of time to enjoy the small towns that you pass through. If you draw a straight line on the map between St. Marks and Springer Mountain, you pass through quite a number of them. Cairo, Camilla, Leesburg, Baconville, and Americus are directly on the route. Others are just to the east or west : Macon, Colquitt, Thomasville. Cairo, the "Hospitality City" is a real gem on the route and lives up to the slogan.

My experience in Cairo (pronounced Kay-ro) started when I was walking down the main street. There was a group of people gathered around the historical museum and they were all excited about something.

Southern Christian compassion

The body is responding. I've been averaging 20 miles a day for the past week, and no more ice packs. 

Part of any trip like this is meeting people. I know so little about the South. We seek out the storytellers in the little towns, visit museums and shops, and chat by the roadside. But we are outsiders struggling to read the tapestry, and we can only glimpse a few threads.

I stop in a parking lot to rest my feet, and a woman drives up. "God told me I should buy you a meal", and she hands me a McDonalds meal. I start to mutter that I am not homeless, and then remember a lesson my friend Loren taught me. Sometimes it is best to just graciously accept the kindness offered by others.

Another time I am lying by the roadside to rest the feet and a passing motorist calls 911 to report an old man passed out on the roadside. 

Geez, do I look that pathetic? No, I think I am just experiencing good Southern Christian compassion. 

Conditioning on the connector

It's more challenging getting the body ready this time. There are more aches that matter. The sore muscles and tender foot soles are not a problem; but ankles, shins and knees; tendons and ligaments? I rotate the two elastic bandages where most needed, usually the right ankle and either the left knee or shin. In the evening comes the ice, compression and elevation.

I am not sure what that means, but I am nine years older than when I hiked the Pacific Crest Trail at age 50.

Lying alongside the road

I'm horizontal. The left foot has been screaming "no mas" for an hour and then finally toppled me.

For two days, I have been on and off roads with no shoulders. Traffic dictates that I hike in the weeds on the left side, which slopes sideways. Knees, ankles and feet aren't made for constant walking on a side slope.

I walk with one elastic bandage on the left knee and another on the right ankle. The left foot has no bandage and hurts across the top of the forefoot.

Listening

I tell myself I'll start slow and let the body condition itself, strengthening muscles, stretching ligaments, and building callouses. Maybe a couple of days with 5-8 miles, then some tens, then fifteens, on the way to twenties. After all, the legs have been locked in a box for a couple of months, and constant wetness leaves my feet with as much callous as a baby's behind. 

But I don't listen very well.

The Hike Begins

Back to the beginning.  Back to St. Marks. 

The hiking segment began on the Historic Railway Trail, which claims to be the first rails-to-trails in the country. Perhaps that is fitting because the railway itself was also the first time Congress granted the company adjacent land to encourage development.

The hike begins very easily.

Stickler: Back to Sarasota

On the way down the gulf coast in February, I was sick in Sarasota.  To meet Pat and Roger on time, we skipped about 40 miles. That was the right call at the time as I was pretty tired when we resumed, even with short miles.

As we drove back towards St Marks, I just couldn't leave that gap.

So what is Phase two?

The adventure has always been about getting from Key West to Halifax. The initial kayaking phase is now done, so it is time to figure out the hiking phase.

While planning the kayaking portion, we decided to go slowly and start the hike at the beginning of the Appalachian Trail, leaving a gap from St Marks to Springer Mountain. I agreed to forego having an unbroken path from Key West to Halifax in order for us to go slower and enjoy the kayaking more.

But now I want to connect all of the footsteps anyway, even though I am short about a month.

Maybe instead of basing the route on the Florida Trail and Pinhoti Trail, I can make up a shorter route, and then make up time on the Appalachian Trail. Wishful thinking?

Planning the hike really is just about determining the route and getting in shape.  I have the skills and will reuse the same gear and food plan as on previous long hikes. The prep for the Appalachian Trail segment is much simpler than for the Continental Divide Trail, and yes I do have my raingear.

I started walking today, with a brisk 7.5 mile flat stroll with no pack. My legs are protesting that it is unfair to be locked up in a boat for ten weeks and then have to hike. Too bad legs. We're doing this. At least as soon as I figure out the route.