I enter my most highly anticipated hike within New Brunswick. The Fundy Footpath might be my last extended wilderness on this trek. My feelings are reminiscent of 100 Miles Wilderness in Maine, the last isolated section before the end of the Appalachian Trail. Isolated wilderness is where I thrive.
The trail is described as "challenging" with corresponding warnings. Fourteen river crossings and innumerable small creeks provide some of the challenge, but the main warnings relate to two tidal flat crossings (with thirty foot tides!), ten stiff climbs and some treacherous cliffs.
Despite traversing the cliffs of the Bay of Fundy, I've been warned that there are limited views. That turns out to be true, as thick trees obscure the views, even when I'm close to the edge of the rocky coastal cliffs. The beauty is close-up as the dense forest is carpeted in bright green moss six to ten inches deep. The sunlight plays games with the forest floor as I move between the permanently dark barren floor under the Red Spruce to the moss and peat under the Balsam Fir and hardwoods. There is beauty here, but rather than that of the rugged coastline it is that of a temperate rainforest.
Still, several of the stream crossings provide clear views out into the Bay, with several nice gravel beach walks. I have huge respect for these enormous tides. The brown water warns of its constant churning. I time my beach visits carefully, even where the guide book says the high beach is safely above the tidal threat. I tent both nights high on bluffs.
I see no people, save one school group. The isolation is welcome and I walk with my own thoughts. I've recently listened to Gandhi's autobiography and to Black Like Me. Both are profound books that challenge my easy life, and I am still processing them.
Much of the trail is wet and boggy. Everyone recommended waterproof boots. I tried mine for a short stretch of the Dobson Trail, but they no longer fit well and hurt. I went back to sneakers and homemade aqua socks for crossings. My feet were soaked due to boggy trail and the rain on Monday. I agree with the recommendation!
Everyone cautions that this is a slow trail. For me it is not so much the climbs (for which my legs are amply ready) as the wet footing and crossings. I planned three days, and packed for four. I also packed cold weather and rain gear so my pack is heavy, but that is not a problem. I complete the Footpath in 48 hours, not pushing particularly hard but just hiking steadily.
At the end I get to meet Bill "Paparazzi" one more time, and to have a great chat with Brian Clark, the manager of the Fundy Parkway and also the President of New Brunswick Trails. He's done a magnificent job meeting the diverse needs of automobile visitors, casual walkers, advanced hikers, snowshoers and snowmobilers. Each has seemingly uncompromised outdoor opportunities. I appreciate the wild and challenging trail.
I end the sunny day with Spirit, driving along the Fundy Parkway, retracing the viewpoints that Trevor and I hiked on a cloudy viewless day a week ago, thankful to get a second chance to see them and to share them with her.
Sep 16 - 12.0 miles to Quiddy River
Sep 17 - 13.0 miles to bluff over Cradle Brook
Sep 18 - 8.0 miles to Fundy Interpretive Center (8.5+24.4+18.8+1.5=53.2km, 33.0 miles)
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