Afterthoughts and Recommendations
Many people take a trek in Nepal . Eighty-year-old couples have crossed the Thorung La Pass. We encountered bird watchers, avid hikers, people on spiritual journeys, lovers of Nepal , mountaineers, youthful adventurers and retired adventurers.
The season to go is, we think, October-November. That is just after the monsoons, so the air and streams are crystal clear, and the weather is still warm. By December-February the higher treks are extremely cold, or blocked with snowdrifts, although many lower treks are still very reasonable. March-April is the best time for wildflowers, and the Rhododendron forest must be magnificent. May is too hot and dusty, and June-September is the monsoon, when trails and bridges wash out and leeches are everywhere.
There are many short treks of 1-3 days, some 5-8, and then there are the 10-20 or more day treks. While the long ones seem more intensive, they really aren't Since you will not be carrying much gear, and will not be planning food and such, the trek length does not really affect the complexity. Likewise, the physical challenge varies with the terrain, not the duration. Some of the popular short treks, such as the three day Poon Hill trek, have much harder climbs in a single day than the longer treks. Just be sure you match up your interests (nature, culture, and mountain views), your ability and knowledge, and your timetable.
Staying on a tea house circuit is the easiest and least expensive choice. The organized camping expeditions are considerably more expensive and only worthwhile if you want to travel on a route that lacks the tea house facilities, but misses the charm of seeing and interacting with the local cultures. For the more adventurous, just fly to Kathmandu and figure out your tea house trek from there. Even if you plan it yourself, you should still hire a porter, if for no other reason than to support the local people. For most of you, it is easier to book the entire trek from North America or Europe , albeit at higher prices, and then have full service from the airport all the way along.
Trekking companies vary considerably. If you are fully insured, equipped, and informed, then you can work with most anyone. But there are some that are particularly good for the traveler who does not want to worry about it himself. Jo and Graeme booked through a service that was excellent, and might be perfect for many people. While it was a teahouse circuit, two porters still carried loads of stuff. During the trip, Jo and Graeme gradually found out what it all was. When the hot water at teahouses was unreliable, the porters delivered pots of hot water to their door in the morning. As we went up the hill and the nights became cooler, the warm weather sleeping bags were magically exchanged for cold weather bags. Rameesh had a medical kit that could handle anything. The top companies can take virtually all of the planning and fear out of the trek.
So how comfortable is it? Well, it is a bit of a walk up a rather high hill. You cannot expect the comfort of a hotel –most of the guesthouses are unheated, and plumbing and electricity are niceties that do not always work. If you think of the trek as a backpacking trip with very little to carry and no cooking, it is heavenly.
Also you have to be mentally ready. Many people, men and women, had anxiety about the pass. Some didn't make it the first attempt but did on the second. Nearly everyone had days where they didn't feel well, either with headaches, or stomach problems, or just tiredness. A sense of camaraderie develops among hikers are we help each other up the hill. Most groups added a day or two to their plans due to health or weather. Plan to be flexible. That said, nearly everyone considers this trek to be a highlight of his or her life. Some of the people were on their second, third, or even eighth trip around. It is magnificent, and by allowing enough time, most anyone can do it.
