Beijing

By the time we reached Beijing we were already feeling like we were leaving China. It was so easy to travel in Shanghai, Suzhou, and Beijing. Also, we were beginning to fantasize about European food: cheese, bread, wine, beer, and chocolate. We've lost enough weight to feel good and healthy, and are ready for unhealthy food again!

We also are getting tired of being viewed as walking ATMs. It gets tiring to have a constant stream of people saying "Hallo, Postcard", "Hallo, CD, watch", or "Hallo, where you going?"

We wish we had more time in China. We regret not spending more time in LiJiang, and we regret that the weather kept us off the holy mountain of Huang Shan. But we are ready to move on.

So Beijing was kind of a holding pattern, knowing that we were about to leave and just seeing a few last sites. We would just be seeing a few more tourist sites, and then be off.

It remained difficult for some things. For example, we tried to get a fax sent to us (for travel arrangements in Europe) for several days, but couldn't get both pages successfully. Also, it still took time to figure out what bus to take, and where to find the internet cafe. But in general, travel in Beijing is much easier than Yunnan and Sichuan.

Oh, I forgot to mention that we are now famous! We have been on TV and in newspapers! We had a news photographer in Shanghai take our picture relaxing at the city park. We had a TV camera crew film us sampling food at the street market in Beijing. Twice, we have had Chinese vacationers ask us to join them in a photo. I guess the white beard is a bit unusual. So far, I have been called Santa Claus, Einstein, Osama bin Laden, various artists, and a few I have forgotten. So, if you want to go to China and be noticed --grow a gray beard. That probably would be even more noticeable if you are a woman.

Beijing

Beijing is a cosmopolitan city. The World Trade Center is full of the most exclusive western brand boutiques. The pedestrian mall could be dropped right into a US city, expect for the signs. Many roads and tree-lined boulevards are quite beautiful, with grassy medians, sitting benches, and flowers. In the morning, older people are out doing Tai Chi exercises along the streets. At least one section of the city is buzzing with young nightlife past midnight. In the stores, you can buy anything, even exquisite French wine for $250 a bottle.

Even some of the "Chinese" areas were really part of an international city. For example, the food market is a famous area to eat local food. It consists of a street market of stalls with all kinds of local food (some very tasty, and others like grasshoppers, frogs, larvae grubs that we passed on). However, at this "local" market, there were only people of white skin as customers. Adjacent was a plain market with rice, noodle and vegetable dishes packed with Chinese and no Westerners.

We did splurge one night and go to a restaurant reputed to have the best Peking Duck. It really was quite amazing. The skin is puffed thick and crispy. Maybe Fran can add a good description here, but I can say that it was good!

Tiananmen Square is, as expected, a massive plaza for people to meet. However, I didn't realize that it has been effectively divided into smaller portions by placing a huge mausoleum for Mao in the center. Tiananmen to Americans represents government oppression. To the Chinese that incident seems to be distant history at this point.

The Forbidden City

The Forbidden City is, of course, where the Emperor lived and ruled. Inside the sterile walls are large expanses of lifeless plaza. There is very little greenery, just stone (and tourists). The city is laid out in layers, so the outer layer is more public, and next layer is for ceremonies and state activities, and then the inner area is the living quarters. They were probably more elaborately decorated, but again looked like a lot of hot rock to us. The exception is the inner garden in the residence, which is beautiful. Most of the Forbidden City is smaller rooms that were used for either storage of grain, or small "palaces" for kings of different regions, or the living quarters of the concubines. Also, there were several rooms that now served as tea houses, amply decorated and serving tea in a tiny cup (that are for sale). There were fascinating museums in the Forbidden City, showing artifacts of Chinese dynasties from thousands of years ago, and tracing the development of art and metal working through the ages. It helps bring ancient China to life.

Ironically, we have been looking for a place to print some digital photos for us for a month. We promised a few friends along the way that we would send pictures of themselves to them. No internet cafe or photo shop could help us. Where did we find such a facility? Within the inner residence of the Forbidden City there was a Kodak setup to take a person's picture, merge it digitally with the Emperor's clothes and background, and viola --you're the Emperor. Since it included a digital camera and a printer, we were able to convince them to let us print our pictures. Who would have guessed that the best printing technology would be in the Forbidden City?

The Summer Palace

The Summer Palace was much more to our liking. I talked about northern gardens versus southern gardens when describing Suzhou. Northern gardens are on a grand scale, including lakes and mountains. And the Summer Palace is a grand example. 

The majority of the area is a massive man made lake (dug with shovels and wheelbarrows), with an island made from the excavation. The buildings are on a jagged rocky hill, and consist of numerous small pavilions connected by paths or covered walkways. Extensive stone and wood beam construction conveys both strength and an informal natural style. 

The large plazas of the Forbidden City are absent, and instead it is difficult to see beyond the next little turn as you progress from one pavilion to the next. Famous points include the Marble Ship, and the Nine Arches Bridge to the island. Several of the pavilions were being restored --they were heavily damaged by Anglo-European warriors a hundred years ago and then not rebuilt. 

We had a great day strolling and watching the lake. Do you detect a common thread in what we like? I think if it has water, greenery and rocks or mountains then it scores well in our book....