Fran and Rod both love Japanese gardens. Tokyo was a bit disappointing that way (except for the Koishikawa Korakuen garden that we described earlier!). Kyoto on the other hand is absolute beauty.
Every little restaurant has a small garden in the entryway. Thousands of temples and shrines dot the city, many with incredible gardens. The camellias are blooming, and even a few plums are starting. Yes, it is winter and a relatively poor time to visit the gardens, but they really are beautiful even now. The shapes, the rocks, the water, the pines, the maples...
We visit many temples (Buddhist) and shrines (Shinto). We feel a bit too ignorant to understand them. They are beautiful, but much of their meaning is lost on us. We have been reading in the evenings to learn more. While we were both acquainted with Buddhism many years ago, we do not remember enough. We have looked for courses, seminars, or books that can help us learn. There is a great eight-week program that would be wonderful, if only Japan were not so expensive! Perhaps when we get to Thailand or China we can spend more time and learn more. We need to learn and experience Buddhism more to fully appreciate the lands in which we are traveling.
Fortunately, the Japanese people are very helpful. While at one temple, many Japanese were particularly excited to see a lacquered door on display. We had no idea why it was so special. A gentleman made a point of trying to explain that it was the door from the inner chamber, not accessible to the public, which housed the statue of a great shogun. It was a very special treat to see.
(A little side note: Rod remarked later that it was very nice of the gray-haired older gentleman to help us. Fran pointed out that with my hat on, my only visible hair is a very gray beard. Hmm, I still think of a fully gray man as a generation older than me, but maybe that distinction is becoming blurred...)
Japan is such a wonderful place to just roam. We are now habitually darting into side alleys to see what is there. Rarely are we disappointed. There are tiny shops, groceries, stores, and everything imaginable tucked into every corner. The typical shop has a storefront maybe just 20-30 feet wide. For example, we needed a locksmith and happened upon one with a tiny stall just four feet by eight feet large. He was very helpful, and would not accept payment.
On the second day, a Kyoto University law student volunteered to spend the day with us. Thanks Mika! You were great! We visited many more temples and shrines, and she interpreted and explained much of what we saw. And since her English was flawless, we had many great conversations. The Japanese are so gracious!
Fran seems to be charmed by one guardian figure in particular. He is a protector, and appears in the guardhouse of many gates into the shrines. We do not yet know his name. He has a fierce face, and is often very bright red, but still looks friendly. He was paired up with another very similar guardian at one temple, and he is saying "ah" while the other says "um". Those are the beginning and end of the Japanese alphabet, so they are saying that everything is contained between them.
There are also figures of Jizo in great abundance. Jizo is the guardian of the children that we first met in Tokyo. Many shrines include Jizo, and some have large numbers of stone statues of Jizo. Many have a cloth bib around them, which is to protect the soul of the dead children. Jizo is also said to be a protector of the traveler. Maybe that's why we are attracted to him. Or maybe it is our own children. Or maybe it is our future grandchildren (no hurry, guys!).
We cannot possibly describe the temples and shrines. They are too beautiful. You have to see them yourself. They are also too numerous. And alas we are too ignorant to describe and explain them. But then, that is part of why we are on this journey...
We are greatly enjoying Kyoto. It is cold (even snowy today), but we spend the entire day out walking. We are walking 5-10 miles every day. The food is great --we continue to eat noodles for breakfast and then one main meal mid-afternoon. Our health is holding out well.
