Mount Fuji is famous worldwide. Its perfect cone shape is quite beautiful. Since it is winter, we did not plan to go to Fuji-san. But it called us anyway...
Fuji is an elusive mountain. Most of the year it is shrouded in clouds, either partly or completely. In previous trips to Japan, Rod has never seen the mountain. But during the winter, fewer clouds form around the mountain, and it is a good time to view the mountain. We saw Fuji from Tokyo, and off we went!
The most famous place to view the mountain is Kamaguchiko Lake. We hopped on a train (or two) and arrived around noon. After finding a very friendly place to stay (Masaaki is great!), we walked around the lake for the beautiful view. There were many fishermen on the lake. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon --fly fishing with a view of Mount Fuji. And they were even catching some nice fat trout. We just sat there and watched the mountain. Fuji was marvelous, but as promised became obscured by clouds just before sunset. That is part of the mystic of Fuji.
We planned to take a small hike (5-6 hours) up the hill on the other side of the lake the next day. But a storm was due that afternoon and we did not want to take any chances. During much of the year, climbing Fuji is somewhat of a pilgrimage. But during the winter it is more treacherous and only for those with mountaineering skills and equipment.
Fran noticed a couple of places to visit in the village. It is a small village, mostly for tourists, and there were craft shops and local museums. We asked Masaaki, and he said that one of them was quite beautiful. Off we went!
It turned out to be absolutely amazing! The Itchiku Kubota Art Museum is built by one artist, to show his work. Few artists ever get such an opportunity, but Itchiku Kubota made his own opportunities. It is an interesting story, and shows the determination it takes to make your own dreams come true.
Itchiku Kubota first saw an exhibit in the Tokyo National Museum at age 20 that changed his life. On display was a silk kimono, dyed with intricate patterns and wonderful blends using a technique that was lost 300 years ago. Itchiku decided right then that he would reproduce that technique. But World War II intervened, and Itchiku found himself to be a POW in Siberia. His reaction was indicative of his character. Many of the other POWs died. In fact, Itchiku often spent his days digging graves for other POWs. But the memory that Itchiku really has of Siberia is the sunsets. The sun, the clouds, and the open ground all produced the most wonderful sunsets he ever saw. His later works include Kimonos with the Siberian sunset.
It was not until age 34 that Itchiku was released and able to start his research into dyeing silk. His determination was maniacal. He had no income, yet had a wife and two children. There was no food, and no money for school. Regardless, Itchiku spend all of his energy researching and experimenting. Despite abject poverty, he persisted. And persisted. And persisted. It was not until he was 60 years old that he finally discovered the full technique, and could reproduce the lost art.
His work instantly took the breath away from everyone. It has been displayed at the Tokyo National Museum, and his was the first work ever for a living artist to be displayed at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum.
But rather than use his art to reach fame and fortune, Itchiku has a vision he is pursuing. He has a configuration of 80 kimonos, which represent the Universe as he sees it. It includes all four seasons, and many of the natural areas that inspired him (including the Siberian sunset!). He is racing against time to complete the work, as he is now 81.
Each Kimono is a major undertaking, and he can only complete one or two a year. But with his persistence, he will finish his dream. Each Kimono is an intricate design of color showing the mountains, lakes, trees and clouds of the area around Fuji-san during the four seasons. When displayed together in a series in the gallery another dimension of the work appears. Each kimono connects to the one next to it so that a larger panoramic view is revealed. One season blends into the next seamlessly - the puffy summer clouds from one kimono transform into the misty autumn clouds of the next.
Our side trip to Fuji seemed the perfect excursion. We had not planned to go to Fuji, but somehow it called us there. Then after a wonderful walk around the lake with incredible views, the next day we happened upon a truly amazing master artist. We know that the trip will have highs and lows, and we are savoring this moment.
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